First Generation Firebird-L Mailing List
 
Re: A/C Comp. Replacement
  by "Frank Zeller" <fzeller@tri-austin.com>
455 upgrade
  by "Frank Zeller" <fzeller@tri-austin.com>
Re: Oil Filter Tip
  by "Frank Zeller" <fzeller@tri-austin.com>
Re: Firebird Emblems
  by "Jamie Hutchinson" <jhutchi2@maine.rr.com>
difference between 455 and 350
  by "Brett Luikkonen" <brett@cisdirect.com>
Turn Signal Housings
  by <SteveBrady1@aol.com>
Freon
  by "Frank Zeller" <fzeller@tri-austin.com>
Re: '68 coupe.
  by "Jeff Davis" <Jeff_Davis19@excite.com>
RE: Exhaust Questions
  by "Bryan & Mone' Young" <bryandmo@home.com>
326 to 455
  by "marcts" <marcts@ga.prestige.net>
Re: A MOMENT OF SILENCE
  by "Lee" <pyre400@yahoo.com>
RE: Exhaust Questions
  by "Trimpe, Bob" <TrimpeB@rajones.com>
Intake manifiold casting numbers
  by <jrotman@rms.moore.com>
RE: Exhaust Questions
  by "Frank Zeller" <fzeller@tri-austin.com>
Heater problems
  by "Mic" <firemans68bird@yahoo.com>
Re: Freon web link
  by "Frank Zeller" <fzeller@tri-austin.com>
Re: Intake manifiold casting numbers
  by "Frank Zeller" <fzeller@tri-austin.com>
 

(back) Subject: Re: A/C Comp. Replacement From: "Frank Zeller" <fzeller@tri-austin.com> Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 07:19:03 -0600   There is a drop in replacement for R12 its called freeze 12. Let me see = if I can find the info. The high pressure side is only a little higher = than R12. It is a much better solution than converting to R134.   Frank   >>> x1r1@hotmail.com 02/17/01 08:41PM >>> First Generation Firebird-L Mailing List .......................................................................... Older A/C compressors are rebuildable I'd contact the pump manufacturer about where to get parts. Service of some parts can take as little as 15 minutes. If you replace your compressor. be sure the new one is the same. If the clutch has failed, that is easily fixed. Some systems have easily replaced valves. The piston seals and shaft seals will be more involved. You should easily be able to rebuild the entire thing in a day. You will either way have to have the system drained(skip this if there is no = pressure in your system, there is a schraeder valve near the compressor) , = vacuumed, and refilled at a shop equipped with a refrigerant recycling machine. I would have all filter/screen components replaced while the system is = open Two things about R134.... NEVER MIX R234 and R12! your system will be ruined. R134 has double the working pressure of R12, so all old components would see600PSI on the high pressure side. If you have the original pump, it might be worth repairing. A refrigeration shop should be able to order stock looking parts. Stay cool.... Rowan   >From: Rich Durham <bull@ccomm.com> >Greetings, Re: A/C, my Bird has factory air, but the compressor is gone >bye-bye. Can anyone recommend a good, reliable source for a replacement? >Also, how big a deal would it be to convert to R134? Thanks in advance. >Rich Durham >Weatherly, Pa. >'68 Firebird >Stock 350          
(back) Subject: 455 upgrade From: "Frank Zeller" <fzeller@tri-austin.com> Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 07:21:22 -0600   Tim,   What is you cam and heads are you using?   Frank   >>> marcts@ga.prestige.net 02/17/01 02:52PM >>> First Generation Firebird-L Mailing List .......................................................................... Well guys, I have my 455 running now, and wanted to report the difference = in performance.   car is 68 convert. First engine was 350 4bbl, headers, 2.5 exh. 2.56 rear peg leg With gtech ran 0-60 in 7.9 qrtr 15.8 @ 95 best. The new motor is = a real monster, even with the 2.56. With gtech and 1/2 throttle to 25 mph I ran 0-60 in 5.6 and babying it off the line and shifting at the wrong time qrtr was 14.2 @ 109.5. I haven't done any tuning on this motor yet, it's really amazing. I think it is a great combo with the 2.56. I'm sure this engine will get into at least the mid 13's with some tuning and driving practice.   I'm having a blast. Have to reccommend to everyone to dump that 350 for a 455!   tim            
(back) Subject: Re: Oil Filter Tip From: "Frank Zeller" <fzeller@tri-austin.com> Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 07:37:05 -0600   What is a 75 GV? Do you think Fram or AC delco filter for that 75 GV have = the anti-drain back.   >>> badgoat@gwi.net 02/19/01 04:44PM >>> First Generation Firebird-L Mailing List .......................................................................... I noticed that my 66 GTO used a NAPA #1049 filter and my 75 GV used a = #1258. I had my dealer check the specs (thanks Willie!). Everything compares except that the 1258 has the anti-drainback valve. The listing will = always show the factory replacement even when something better comes along. I'll be using the 1258 now on all my V8's. Sorry if you see this on more then one list. I'm posting it to wherever = it might be of interest.   Check out www.badgoat.net          
(back) Subject: Re: Firebird Emblems From: "Jamie Hutchinson" <jhutchi2@maine.rr.com> Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 09:25:11 -0500   -Now here's a thread that keeps coming back......   In my earlier days, when repro suppliers were scarce and you had to travel to swap meets and auto fairs to find the simplest (yet rare) part, these home remedies seemed to be a viable alternative. I drove around for years with the firebird scripts carefully painted with white enamel (mixed flat with a little gloss from Testers bottles to get the right look). I = did the same with the fender bird emblems, using modelers paint. The paint = faded and peeled over time and had to be re-done occasionally. I then tried the plastic beads that hobby shops sell for those suncatcher kits. You had to bake them in the oven and let them flow into place. They still fell out (think of the road vibrations) and were not the correct color or look. = Then I tried the polyester resin stuff that is used for encapsulating bugs and making those neat paperweights. You can get a dye kit that colors the = resin as well. I did this in two steps: First, I experimented with the red dye, counting the number of drops needed to match the original emblem color. (I used my glovebox emblem for a model, as it was still intact) I did the red areas and let it start to set up. Then I did the black in the same manner. As soon as the colored areas were set past the liquid stage. I covered all with clear, as the originals are. The result was not bad, but no matter = how you try, it's difficult to get the same appearance as the original. The colors will bleed together slightly, too. I drove around with these for a year, but the problem I had was that the surface hazed a little and had to be waxed. They also started lifting and peeling out of the base metal. The base metal is "pot metal" that is chrome plated. The chrome makes it difficult for anything to adhere for any length of time. I think the = problem is also aggrevated by temp cycles (shrinking/expanding) and UV from the = sun. I looked back at all the HOURS I spent in searching for products, experimenting to get the process right, painstakingly appling the stuff = with toothpicks, letting them cure, re-doing them if they didn't come out = right, finally settling for what I thought was a compromised result and then = having them fall apart again. I figured that if I was working for MINIMUM WAGE I was still dealing with some expensive emblems. It was fun at first, but after a few failures I saw the light. My time is worth more than that. = This is a special process that is hard to duplicate in the home. $30 is not all that much money if you figure how much is wasted elsewhere. Think of all = the times you spent that much on something that was appreciated for only minutes. Its easier to make the $30 than to go through all that......really.If you get the nice professionally made emblems, you'll appreciate them every time you look at them. Probably for many years, too. Suppliers like Ames exist only because people patronize their business and allow them to expand, improve and even keep parts more affordable and AVAILABLE. I say, do it the old fashioned way: SAVE until you can afford = it, buy QUALITY and DEEPLY appreciate it so that it gets the care it deserves.   My $0.02   Jamie       Earlier this week there was a thread about painting emblems.   I did a little research and found that the process used to make the Firebird emblems is called Cloisonn=E9. This is the term that Ames uses = in their catalogue also.   I decided to look into repairing them after I saw the prices for emblems in Ames!   (snip)   Some references call them enameled emblems. Enameling requires a powdered colorant that is baked on.     Any observations or suggestions?            
(back) Subject: difference between 455 and 350 From: "Brett Luikkonen" <brett@cisdirect.com> Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 06:59:07 -0600   Tim, you hit close to home! Just picked up a fresh 73 YC code 455 with 6X heads yesterday! I have a 67 326 vert with 2.56 gears but in posi form. = Flowmaster 2.5" with Hooker Comp headers, TH400 with a shift kit and cooler... I CAN'T = WAIT to get it together and in and on the road! Thanks for the preview!   Brett in Seattle! 67 Drop top 326... Ah, I mean 455!   Subject: difference between 455 and 350 Well guys, I have my 455 running now, and wanted to report the difference = in performance. car is 68 convert. First engine was 350 4bbl, headers, 2.5 exh. 2.56 rear peg leg With gtech ran 0-60 in 7.9 qrtr 15.8 @ 95 best. The new motor is = a real monster, even with the 2.56. With gtech and 1/2 throttle to 25 mph I ran 0-60 in 5.6 and babying it off the line and shifting at the wrong time qrtr was 14.2 @ 109.5. I haven't done any tuning on this motor yet, it's really amazing. I think it is a great combo with the 2.56. I'm sure this engine will get into at least the mid 13's with some tuning and driving practice. I'm having a blast. Have to reccommend to everyone to dump that 350 for a 455! - tim      
(back) Subject: Turn Signal Housings From: <SteveBrady1@aol.com> Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 11:00:52 EST   What color are the turn signal housings supposed to be painted? (front and = back) Mine are all rusty and I'm about to de-rust and repaint them. = Thanks.     Steve Brady 68 400 Convertible http://members.nbci.com/srb/    
(back) Subject: Freon From: "Frank Zeller" <fzeller@tri-austin.com> Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 11:06:53 -0600   Replacement R-12 freon, 36lb canister, $275. 12 can case $150. Call = 800-807-9612.        
(back) Subject: Re: '68 coupe. From: "Jeff Davis" <Jeff_Davis19@excite.com> Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 09:15:09 -0800 (PST)   How about Saturday? I know rain is in the forecast but....maybe Sunday? I'll bring back the two wheels I got from you and then you'll have a set = to sell. I'm going to Jacksonville March 9 and hope to get my two back after having been painted. I'm DYING to see and hear your Firebird running!     On Mon, 19 Feb 2001 17:09:18 -0500, First Generation Firebird-L wrote:   > First Generation Firebird-L Mailing List > = ......................................................................... > For the list-- I have two 15x7 Ralley II's for sale (they need restoration.) > Jeff - When do you want to get together for that cold one? Let me know. > John > -----Original Message----- > From: Jeff Davis <Jeff_Davis19@excite.com> > To: First Generation Firebird-L <Firebird-L@oakmediacreations.com> > Date: Monday, February 19, 2001 12:59 PM > Subject: Re: '68 coupe. > > > >First Generation Firebird-L Mailing List > >......................................................................... > >WAY TO GO, JOHN! I bet that made you feel like it was all worth it. > > > > > >Enjoy it! > >Jeff > >On Sun, 18 Feb 2001 11:09:41 -0500, First Generation Firebird-L wrote: > > > >> First Generation Firebird-L Mailing List > >> > = ......................................................................... > >> Yesterday my wife and I jumped in my '68 coupe (for the first real road > >> trip) We went over 200 miles just cruizing. That pontiac didnt = miss a > >> lick. What a feeling/ JOhn. > >           _______________________________________________________ Send a cool gift with your E-Card http://www.bluemountain.com/giftcenter/        
(back) Subject: RE: Exhaust Questions From: "Bryan & Mone' Young" <bryandmo@home.com> Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 10:13:46 -0800   My own question is I plan to install the headers I bought and need the = rest of the exhaust from headers back. Is there place to call to order these parts already pre-bent for a 68? I don't want to have to take the car in would rather order and then install in the garage. I can get a welder if needed. Anyway if anyone knows a place let me know. I want to go to the = duel exhaust from my now single.   Also what do you all think of walker mufflers? I keep hearing flowmasters but was told by a reliable sorce and trusted car buff that walker was much better. Anyone have input? Thanks.     bryan 68 firebird conv 350   -----Original Message----- From: Firebird-L@oakmediacreations.com [mailto:Firebird-L@oakmediacreations.com]On Behalf Of x1r1 x Sent: Saturday, February 17, 2001 10:43 PM To: Firebird-L@oakmediacreations.com Subject: Re: Exhaust Questions     First Generation Firebird-L Mailing List ..........................................................................   Prebent clamp together systems are pretty good, and not too hard to = install. No auto manufacturer I'm aware of welds their exhaust systms into one peice. If using clamps, make sure the threaded parts do not project downward, they are an extra pain after being dragged over a few obstacles. Doubling clamps in opposite directions is helpful in preventing leaks. If yo do not order a system that comes with all hangers, getting the dual system hanging well on your ride will require serious ingenuity. I do not recomend the hangars that are a lag bolt wit two shock bushings. They transmit more vibration into the car, and tend to work loose. Handy in = the tight space by the back o the leaf spring though. That is probably the hardest part to get right. A tactic I have used at the muffler shop is to ask for the peices bent, saying 'Ill weld it myself'. Ive had the price of a full system made and installed reduced 50%, because they realy only make money on the labor, = and don't want to loose that. The salesperson is often paid comission, tries = to sell high. I'd agree with Jhon, Find a tech who likes cars, or somone you know. You will end up much more satisfied. Above all do not go to Midas, They will loose a lugnut without touching anything but the muffler! ..02 Rowan*68 (wounded)   PS> An Engine tech has taken his training course, and just completed His final exam. He is surprised to see He got 110% on the exam, and askes the instructor about it. The instructor replies ,"You scored 33% for corectly diagnosing the problem, 33% for knowing the procedure for correcting the problem, 33% for sucessfuly repairing the problem, and an extra 10% = because I've never seen anyone who could fix an engine through th tailpipe = before." "no problem,"says the tech with a smile,"I was a gynecologist before I got into this."     >From: "John Wern" <jwern@gw.total-web.net> >......................................................................... >Erich - Go dual exaust. Let a Muffelr man do it. If I were you (what I >did) I looked around at local shops. I happened apon talking to an = exaust >guy at a place called Merlin's Meffler. He had a 70 Chevelle (beautiful) = I >let him put on the exaust because he appreciated older cars. He did >awesome >work. He put on the car Mufflers called "magna-flow" >http://www.promuffler.com/magnaflow.htm It's not loud but has a deep >RUMBLE. >It's a high performance 'straight-through' muffler. the whole thing cost >me >$430.00. It wa a little $$ but he did a very good job. I had all this >done >last week. John.   >-----Original Message----- >From: Erich Wagner (by way of Geoff >First Generation Firebird-L Mailing >List > = >......................................................................... > >I will be putting a complete exhaust system on my bird (=ED67 326, auto > >Convert) this spring (my neighbors will be pleased, for some reason = they > >don > >=EDt like the sound of an engine just with temporary flex pipes coming = off > >the > >manifolds!) I intend to go with a dual exhaust, not the original single. > > > >I see where Ames offers complete exhaust systems as well as some = optional > >mufflers. > > > >A few questions: > >1) Would this group recommend I buy an exhaust system such as the > >one > >listed in Ames and install it myself? I=EDm not an automotive expert = but > >with > >some help I have been able to disassemble the whole motor and put it = back > >again (even better, it runs and I don=EDt have too many parts left = over). >I > >do not have any welding equipment and I would have to install the = system > >with the car on blocks and jack stands. Is this doable for a man of my > >=ECtalents=EE and equipment? > >2) If I do go this route what would you recommend I buy? Does > >anybody > >recommend stainless steel? I want to keep the car as original looking = as > >possible and I want a little sound but not a lot. > >3) The other option is to have a local muffler place make me a = dual > >exhaust system. What is everyone=EDs thoughts on this? > > > >Thanks, > >Erich > >=ED67 326 Convertible > >        
(back) Subject: 326 to 455 From: "marcts" <marcts@ga.prestige.net> Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 13:44:32 -0500   I guarantee you it will blow your mind! Have fun    
(back) Subject: Re: A MOMENT OF SILENCE From: "Lee" <pyre400@yahoo.com> Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 11:59:24 -0800 (PST)   I think Earnhardt's old man raced Pontiacs in the 60's... Is this correct?   __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35 a year! http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/    
(back) Subject: RE: Exhaust Questions From: "Trimpe, Bob" <TrimpeB@rajones.com> Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 15:15:55 -0500   There was a thread a little while ago that referred to a great article = about muffler testing. I printed the article, but I can't recall the website. Maybe another lister can.   The article told about a systematic testing at the track of different muffler and pipe configurations and pipe size. The results (as best I recall) settled on a Walker muffler, x-pipe configuration, and exhaust of = 2 1/2" diameter.   Holler if you don't locate the article, and I'll look through my pile of papers!   Bob Trimpe   -----Original Message----- From: Bryan & Mone' Young [mailto:bryandmo@home.com] Sent: Tuesday, February 20, 2001 1:14 PM To: First Generation Firebird-L Subject: RE: Exhaust Questions     First Generation Firebird-L Mailing List .......................................................................... My own question is I plan to install the headers I bought and need the = rest of the exhaust from headers back. Is there place to call to order these parts already pre-bent for a 68? I don't want to have to take the car in would rather order and then install in the garage. I can get a welder if needed. Anyway if anyone knows a place let me know. I want to go to the = duel exhaust from my now single.   Also what do you all think of walker mufflers? I keep hearing flowmasters but was told by a reliable sorce and trusted car buff that walker was much better. Anyone have input? Thanks.     bryan      
(back) Subject: Intake manifiold casting numbers From: <jrotman@rms.moore.com> Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 14:58:15 -0600     Can someone point me to the site that has the cross-reference for Pontiac Heads, Intake mannifolds, and exhaust mannifolds and the translation of = the casting numbers to the year and make they went with?? I know I have seen = it somewhere but I lost the bookmark.   Joe Rotman 68 Firebird 350 Convertible      
(back) Subject: RE: Exhaust Questions From: "Frank Zeller" <fzeller@tri-austin.com> Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 15:13:05 -0600   http://www.wauknet.com/douthitt/exhaust.htm   >>> TrimpeB@rajones.com 02/20/01 02:15PM >>> First Generation Firebird-L Mailing List .......................................................................... There was a thread a little while ago that referred to a great article = about muffler testing. I printed the article, but I can't recall the website. Maybe another lister can.   The article told about a systematic testing at the track of different muffler and pipe configurations and pipe size. The results (as best I recall) settled on a Walker muffler, x-pipe configuration, and exhaust of = 2 1/2" diameter.   Holler if you don't locate the article, and I'll look through my pile of papers!   Bob Trimpe   -----Original Message----- From: Bryan & Mone' Young [mailto:bryandmo@home.com] Sent: Tuesday, February 20, 2001 1:14 PM To: First Generation Firebird-L Subject: RE: Exhaust Questions     First Generation Firebird-L Mailing List .......................................................................... My own question is I plan to install the headers I bought and need the = rest of the exhaust from headers back. Is there place to call to order these parts already pre-bent for a 68? I don't want to have to take the car in would rather order and then install in the garage. I can get a welder if needed. Anyway if anyone knows a place let me know. I want to go to the = duel exhaust from my now single.   Also what do you all think of walker mufflers? I keep hearing flowmasters but was told by a reliable sorce and trusted car buff that walker was much better. Anyone have input? Thanks.     bryan        
(back) Subject: Heater problems From: "Mic" <firemans68bird@yahoo.com> Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 13:16:04 -0800 (PST)   Hey everyone, I have a couple of problems with the heater on my 68 Coupe.   1. The heater makes a lot of noise when the fan is turned on. It squeals very loud and can be heard outside of the car. It does it whether the car is cold or hot. Sometimes it quits doing it and then restarts. If you slam the passenger door it will sometimes start squealing again.   2. The heater/ac controls don't work properly. The fan blows with very little force and only out of the drivers side defrost vent.   Any ideas or suggestions? BTW some of the a/c stuff was removed by a previous owner, so it is inoperable.   Thanks in advance for you help!   =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D Michael   '68 Cameo 400 coupe http://communities.msn.com/Firemans68BirdNest   LEARN CPR, IT SAVES LIVES!!!! BE COOL ABOUT FIRE SAFETY!!!!   __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35 a year! http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/    
(back) Subject: Re: Freon web link From: "Frank Zeller" <fzeller@tri-austin.com> Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 15:43:47 -0600   http://www.btt.org/FAQ.html   >>> fzeller@tri-austin.com 02/20/01 11:06AM >>> First Generation Firebird-L Mailing List .......................................................................... Replacement R-12 freon, 36lb canister, $275. 12 can case $150. Call = 800-807-9612.          
(back) Subject: Re: Intake manifiold casting numbers From: "Frank Zeller" <fzeller@tri-austin.com> Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 15:44:59 -0600   http://fteufert1.home.att.net/pontiac/page2.htm   >>> jrotman@rms.moore.com 02/20/01 02:58PM >>> First Generation Firebird-L Mailing List ..........................................................................   Can someone point me to the site that has the cross-reference for Pontiac Heads, Intake mannifolds, and exhaust mannifolds and the translation of = the casting numbers to the year and make they went with?? I know I have seen = it somewhere but I lost the bookmark.   Joe Rotman 68 Firebird 350 Convertible