First Generation Firebird-L Mailing List Re: AM/FM price going up ?! by <Framair@aol.com> 67 Firebird RA Air Cleaner by <Framair@aol.com> Re: difference between 455 and 350 by "John Wern" <jwern@gw.total-web.net> '68 coupe. by "John Wern" <jwern@gw.total-web.net> Johnny Lightning 69 Birds by <Studderin@aol.com> Re: difference between 455 and 350 by "Just Rod" <pjozif@hotmail.com> Re: An observation about us 1st genners by <BHA676@aol.com> Re: 67 Firebird RA Air Cleaner by "Shawn Jeppson" <sfjeppson@earthlink.net> Re: A/C Comp. Replacement by "Shawn Jeppson" <sfjeppson@earthlink.net> Re: '68 coupe. by "Brian Sargent" <bjsbird1@yahoo.com> A MOMENT OF SILENCE by "Mace" <macef@optonline.net> Rally wheel restoration by "Gary Patrick" <Gary@tcworks.net> RE treatment of bare metal by "Gary Patrick" <Gary@tcworks.net> A-6 compressor replacement by "Gary Patrick" <Gary@tcworks.net> ADMN: List Hardware Problem by "Geoff Martin" <Geoff@firstgenfirebird.org> Re: A MOMENT OF SILENCE by <AMurray501@aol.com> Re: A MOMENT OF SILENCE by "Eddie Pettit" <eddie@thepettitfamily.org> moment of slience by "Chris Porter" <fxstsb@pop.sttl.uswest.NET> Re: A-6 compressor replacement by "x1r1 x" <x1r1@hotmail.com> Re: A MOMENT OF SILENCE by <hugoba@apcom.com> 2' Drop Spindles by "Eric Toledo" <erictol@pacbell.net> Re: difference between 455 and 350 by <PStonebrak@aol.com> Re: RE treatment of bare metal by <PStonebrak@aol.com>
(back) Subject: Re: AM/FM price going up ?! From: <Framair@aol.com> Date: Sun, 18 Feb 2001 09:18:44 EST I suppose if someone wants the radio bad enough to spend $660, then some might say the price is going up. Since I just recently sold one for $250, = I suppose I could say the price is going down. :) It's all relative. John FRamair@aol.com Semper Fi Ephesians 4:32
(back) Subject: 67 Firebird RA Air Cleaner From: <Framair@aol.com> Date: Sun, 18 Feb 2001 09:24:45 EST To the individual who asked whether or not a Ram Air Shroud (air cleaner) from a '68 Firebird would fit a '67.... All '67-'68 Firebird and '68 GTOs that came with Ram Air used the same Carb. Shroud (Air Cleaner Housing) & Lid. There were no Carter carbs. used on any '67 400 Firebirds. The RA Hood Baffle was also the same '67/'68 Firebird but different on the '68 GTO (though, they initially look the same). Thanks to Gary Patrick for reminding me of this. John FRamair@aol.com Semper Fi Ephesians 4:32
(back) Subject: Re: difference between 455 and 350 From: "John Wern" <jwern@gw.total-web.net> Date: Sun, 18 Feb 2001 11:07:34 -0500 Could someone tell me what bulb to buy for the overhead light of my '68 coupe? I'm talking about he head lamp. And does anyone have an extra = cap that goes on that? Rowan that parts car of yours You got one in there??
(back) Subject: '68 coupe. From: "John Wern" <jwern@gw.total-web.net> Date: Sun, 18 Feb 2001 11:09:41 -0500 Yesterday my wife and I jumped in my '68 coupe (for the first real road trip) We went over 200 miles just cruizing. That pontiac didnt miss a lick. What a feeling/ JOhn.
(back) Subject: Johnny Lightning 69 Birds From: <Studderin@aol.com> Date: Sun, 18 Feb 2001 14:16:21 EST I went to a K-B toystore and they had 4 red 69's no 67's So I guess they now make both????? I got 1, It's cool for only 2.99 got a 400 hood W/ a hood tack. Looks = like it's got weld pro-stars and pretty big tires in the back. The hood opens,no RA setup. It sits kinda high like a 4x4. John Costello
(back) Subject: Re: difference between 455 and 350 From: "Just Rod" <pjozif@hotmail.com> Date: Sun, 18 Feb 2001 20:10:18 -0000 >Those are some pretty impressive results so far Tim! >what are the details on your set up again? ( heads, intake, carb, cam?) >the 455 is a real punch adder, but pontiacs 350 can be built fairly well, >certainly requiring more money, as it might take $1000 in add ons to = build > >equivilent figures as a strong 455. >On another note, my firebird with its 76' Yb 350 low compression 2bbl = with > >3.08 and 2 1/4 duals all the way with a K+N and some tuning also ran >15.9-16.2 all day, pretty much stock one might say.....so theoretically = an > >H.O 350 with something of an Isky supercam, headers and a re-worked Qj >with >some tuning and a shift kit ran 14.4 next to me that same day! >.uhh just saying the 350 is a good performer and can be just as much >fun.<---trying to defend myself! :p >later >Rod > > >Well guys, I have my 455 running now. First engine was 350 4bbl, >headers, 2.5 exh. 2.56 rear With gtech ran qrtr 15.8 @ 95 best. The new >motor With gtech ran the qrtr in 14.2 @ 109.5 Have to reccommend to everyone to dump that 350 for >a > >455! > > > >tim _________________________________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com.
(back) Subject: Re: An observation about us 1st genners From: <BHA676@aol.com> Date: Sun, 18 Feb 2001 15:11:49 EST Im only 24 and to stubborn to sell my car after all the time and money and = blood and sweat and tears and did I forget to mention blood and money. I could sell my car and solve all my fianancial problems but no im hooked = now. Some may say that the brake cleaner might have affected me but having a = car that is so unique nowadays and such a nostalgia trip is great. All of you = who have spent too much time and money that you can barely afford on your ride understand. brad 67 400 convert
(back) Subject: Re: 67 Firebird RA Air Cleaner From: "Shawn Jeppson" <sfjeppson@earthlink.net> Date: Sun, 18 Feb 2001 15:11:40 -0700 Thanks for the info. Shawn Framair@aol.com wrote: > First Generation Firebird-L Mailing List > = ......................................................................... > To the individual who asked whether or not a Ram Air Shroud > (air cleaner) from a '68 Firebird would fit a '67.... > > All '67-'68 Firebird and '68 GTOs that came with Ram Air > used the same Carb. Shroud (Air Cleaner Housing) & Lid. > There were no Carter carbs. used on any '67 400 Firebirds. > The RA Hood Baffle was also the same '67/'68 Firebird but > different on the '68 GTO (though, they initially look the same). > > Thanks to Gary Patrick for reminding me of this. > > John > FRamair@aol.com > Semper Fi > Ephesians 4:32
(back) Subject: Re: A/C Comp. Replacement From: "Shawn Jeppson" <sfjeppson@earthlink.net> Date: Sun, 18 Feb 2001 15:24:13 -0700 Switching to R-134A is no real big deal. The AC will run a little warmer = with the stock compressor because it was built to run lower pressure R-12. = Just make sure to replace all the seals, filter, and the condenser. Flush the system with AC flush, available at most auto parts stores, until it comes = out clean. If you don't have the special machine to do this you can pour it = into the compressor AC lines and use a air compressor to push it through the system, remove the filter and condenser first. Once that is done try to = blow all the flush out, bolt up the system, and have it pressure checked. Then = you can add refrigerant and oil, one can refrigerant then the oil then the = rest of the refrigerant with the AC on max cool. About the only specialized = equipment you really need is the vacuum pump to evacuate the system. The hoses and fittings will come in a retrofit kit with the oil and refrigerant or can = be bought separately. Shawn 67 coupe Rich Durham wrote: > First Generation Firebird-L Mailing List > = ......................................................................... > Greetings, Re: A/C, my Bird has factory air, but the compressor is gone > bye-bye. Can anyone recommend a good, reliable source for a replacement? > Also, how big a deal would it be to convert to R134? Thanks in = advance. > Rich Durham > Weatherly, Pa. > '68 Firebird > Stock 350
(back) Subject: Re: '68 coupe. From: "Brian Sargent" <bjsbird1@yahoo.com> Date: Sun, 18 Feb 2001 14:11:43 -0800 (PST) I don't know John, can you use "wife" and "My 68 coupe" in the same sentence? Congrats on getting it up and running. Brian 69 conv. --- John Wern <jwern@gw.total-web.net> wrote: > First Generation Firebird-L Mailing List > .......................................................................... > Yesterday my wife and I jumped in my '68 coupe (for > the first real road > trip) We went over 200 miles just cruizing. That > pontiac didnt miss a > lick. What a feeling/ JOhn. > > > > __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35 a year! http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
(back) Subject: A MOMENT OF SILENCE From: "Mace" <macef@optonline.net> Date: Sun, 18 Feb 2001 10:26:12 -0500 This message goes out to all of the list members who love to drive their BIRDS....Lets take a moment of silence to remember Dale Earnhardt. Even though it wasn't through PONTIACS...He was a true MOTOR HEAD..Like = all of us.... Mace 69 350 Drop Top
(back) Subject: Rally wheel restoration From: "Gary Patrick" <Gary@tcworks.net> Date: Sat, 17 Feb 2001 09:58:13 -0500 Hugo says> 2- A couple of years ago I bought a set of 14's and a set of 15's from a = local guy that advertised in the paper for $20.00 a piece. Yesterday I pulled out one of the 15's and spent about half an hour at the = sand blaster and barely made a dent on removing the old paint. 3- I called Summit to order a set of 4 15"'ers and they said they were supposed to get them in by the end of the month so I rdered them (they are 92 bucks = or so) since I figured it would take me FOREVER to sandblast 4 of them and = then paint them and get them to look as good as the 14's that I got before. Hugo Heres how I clean up Rally wheels. Glenn will pay testament to this as I've had as many as 30 at a time being stripped and derusted on an assemblyline . Buy 2 new plastic garbage cans with a bottom thats a little larger than the wheels youll be stripping. Go to the local pool supply place and get a couple gallons of muriatic acid. Be sure and get the industrial strength stuff. Go to Home depot and get the spray on paint remover(brush on stuff wont get into the cracks as good) Be sure and use a pair of goggles,long rubber gloves and an apron for all stripping and derusting. Place the wheel in garbage can and spray with the paint remover,turn over and do the backside and inner part of rim. leaving it inside the can will contain the spray and concentrate the fumes which help to soften the paint. You can do as many as 3 wheels in the can at the same time. Remove wheels when paint is bubbled and pressure wash clean Remember that paint stripper is still active and will burn skin it = contacts. Once the wheels are clean move them to the second "tank" which has the muriatic acid and water solution. Submerge the wheel completely in solution and soak just long enough to dissolve any rust. DO NOT LEAVE IN SOLUTION MORE THAN 2 HOURS Any rust thats not dissolved in this time is probably too heavy for a nice = wheel anyway. Immediately after removing from solution pressure wash and put in a clean = can to mist a coat of OSPHO or similar etch and derust converter. Remove OSHPO after a few minutes not allowing it to dry before removing. Dry off wheels with compressed air paying close attention to the crack that the rim and center are joined at. Solution if not properly removed will creep out while painting. You can then store wheels for later painting or paint the next day after you know they are completely dry. I did some wheels several years ago and are still bare and showing no = signs of rust. The trash cans should be drained into proper containers and disposed of properly. With 3 cans you can do several wheels at the same time and in a days time can do about 5 or 6 sets. IVe also made some mask kits from vinyl that can be reused several times for about the same price as the ones others sell made of masking tape. email me if interested. Gary
(back) Subject: RE treatment of bare metal From: "Gary Patrick" <Gary@tcworks.net> Date: Sat, 17 Feb 2001 10:04:44 -0500 Dale says> Subject: Treatment of exposed metal From: "Dale J. Barkla" <systech@tig.com.au> Date: Sat, 17 Feb 2001 18:12:56 +1100 I've been wire wheeling a lot of the gunk (seam sealer) off my interior = and at times I expose patches of bare metal. Anyone got any tips on what I should put on the metal to stop surface rust ? Should I temporarily prime it or just give it a dose of WD40/RP7 every once in a while ? It will be AT LEAST another 8 months before I get the bird into a paint = shop....thanks in advance....Dale '68 Conv. Dale DONT use any oilbased product to derust. Use OSPHO or similar converter its then ready to paint even months later. It must stay dry tho,as moisture will disslove it. Gary
(back) Subject: A-6 compressor replacement From: "Gary Patrick" <Gary@tcworks.net> Date: Sun, 18 Feb 2001 08:44:14 -0500 Subject: Re: A/C Comp. Replacement From: "x1r1 x" <x1r1@hotmail.com> Date: Sat, 17 Feb 2001 18:41:04 -0800 Older A/C compressors are rebuildable I'd contact the pump manufacturer about where to get parts. Service of some parts can take as little as 15 minutes. If you replace your compressor. be sure the new one is the same. If the clutch has failed, that is easily fixed. Some systems have easily replaced valves. The piston seals and shaft seals will be more involved. You should easily be able to rebuild the entire thing in a day. You will either way have to have the system drained(skip this if there is no = pressure in your system, there is a schraeder valve near the compressor) , = vacuumed, and refilled at a shop equipped with a refrigerant recycling machine. I would have all filter/screen components replaced while the system is = open Two things about R134.... NEVER MIX R234 and R12! your system will be ruined. R134 has double the working pressure of R12, so all old components would see600PSI on the high pressure side. If you have the original pump, it might be worth repairing. A refrigeration shop should be able to order stock looking parts. Stay cool.... Rowan What? 134a double R 12? Not so Rowan, Theres not that much difference in the 2 refrigerants. I have a pressure vs temp chart I can send you or you can find one on the = web. At the high temp at compressor@160Deg F the R12 pressure is 265#. R134a is 300# at same temp.Thats 45# difference. Twice would be 530# which no R 12 system would take. R134a is not the only replacement refrigerant EPA has approved for R 12 replacement.There are several "blends" and alternative = refrigerants. Glenn has been working with one at there shop for some time now. Rich keep in mind that to convert to any refrigerant you must change = dryer, do a complete flush of system and use an oil that comparable with the refrigerant you use. Your compressor is an A-6 Frigadaire and is one of the most common ones out there.I would send yours out to a rebuilder that does R&R not on an exchange basis. that way you can retain the original one with the round ink stamp. Check the achieves for replacement of R12 I went thru this in detail when Roy was doing his a/c. Gary
(back) Subject: ADMN: List Hardware Problem From: "Geoff Martin" <Geoff@firstgenfirebird.org> Date: Mon, 19 Feb 2001 21:57:17 -0500 Noticed a problem with our local network around 3:00 pm today for our mailing list. Around 9:00 pm I identified the problem to be our ethernet hub. Diagnosing the problem, I inadvertently took the router down for the local network. Have the router's firmware reinstalled and a cross-over cable temporary patching the list server into the router. All should be working properly now but time will tell. Report any problems to me at: Geoff@FirstGenFirebird.org or call my cell/voice mail at 517-250-3422. Geoff <Geoff@FirstGenFirebird.org>
(back) Subject: Re: A MOMENT OF SILENCE From: <AMurray501@aol.com> Date: Sun, 18 Feb 2001 21:59:04 EST wow.........
(back) Subject: Re: A MOMENT OF SILENCE From: "Eddie Pettit" <eddie@thepettitfamily.org> Date: Sun, 18 Feb 2001 22:36:29 -0500 .....
(back) Subject: moment of slience From: "Chris Porter" <fxstsb@pop.sttl.uswest.NET> Date: Sun, 18 Feb 2001 20:11:14 -0800 This message goes out to all of the list members who love to drive their BIRDS....Lets take a moment of silence to remember Dale Earnhardt. Even though it wasn't through PONTIACS...He was a true MOTOR HEAD..Like all of us.... I couldn't believe what I heard when they said he was killed !!! I'm an avid Dale collector with over 1000 pieces of memorabilia in my collection. This is the worst day for racing ever, possibly surpassing when Senna was killed. My heart goes out to all in his family. NASCAR will never be the same for me. I never rooted for any other driver. Chris `68 350 H.O. Drop-top
(back) Subject: Re: A-6 compressor replacement From: "x1r1 x" <x1r1@hotmail.com> Date: Sun, 18 Feb 2001 20:26:53 -0800 R134 was a new thing when I was in A/C school, there may have been some misinformation going around...I know my textbook said R12 was completely harmless, and it was a 3 year old text. May as well try to get a shop to credit you for the refrigerant in your system (if there is any), the stuff = is expensive as well as harmful to the environment. Thanks gary for setting me straight. >From: Gary Patrick <Gary@tcworks.net> >Subject: Re: A/C Comp. Replacement >From: "x1r1 x" <x1r1@hotmail.com> >Older A/C compressors are rebuildable I'd contact the pump manufacturer >about where to get parts. Service of some parts can take as little as 15 >minutes. >If you replace your compressor. be sure the new one is the same. >If the clutch has failed, that is easily fixed. Some systems have easily >replaced valves. The piston seals and shaft seals will be more involved. >You should easily be able to rebuild the entire thing in a day. You will >either way have to have the system drained(skip this if there is no >pressure >in your system, there is a schraeder valve near the compressor) , = vacuumed, >and refilled at a shop equipped with a refrigerant recycling machine. >I would have all filter/screen components replaced while the system is = open >Two things about R134.... >NEVER MIX R234 and R12! your system will be ruined. >R134 has double the working pressure of R12, so all old components >would see600PSI on the high pressure side. >If you have the original pump, it might be worth repairing. >A refrigeration shop should be able to order stock looking parts. >Stay cool.... >Rowan > >What? 134a double R 12? >Not so Rowan, Theres not that much difference in the 2 refrigerants. >I have a pressure vs temp chart I can send you or you can find one on the = >web. >At the high temp at compressor@160Deg F the R12 pressure is 265#. >R134a is 300# at same temp.Thats 45# difference. Twice would be >530# which no R 12 system would take. >R134a is not the only replacement refrigerant EPA has approved >for R 12 replacement.There are several "blends" and alternative >refrigerants. >Glenn has been working with one at there shop for some time now. >Rich keep in mind that to convert to any refrigerant you must change = dryer, >do a complete flush of system and use an oil that comparable with the >refrigerant you use. >Your compressor is an A-6 Frigadaire and is one of the most common ones >out there.I would send yours out to a rebuilder that does R&R not on an >exchange >basis. that way you can retain the original one with the round ink stamp. >Check the achieves for replacement of R12 I went thru this in detail when > Roy was doing his a/c. >Gary > _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
(back) Subject: Re: A MOMENT OF SILENCE From: <hugoba@apcom.com> Date: Sun, 18 Feb 2001 22:03:12 -0800 (PST) Indeed. I watched the race and was horrified at the 18 car pile up and was glad to = hear that Tony Stewart was ok given the increddible air time and tumble he had. I saw the accident in the last lap but was shocked to hear later in the = news that Dale Sr. lost his life because of it. A great man lost his life helping one of his team nated win the race. Sad. Hugo > > > > From Firebird-L@oakmediacreations.com Sun Feb 18 18:58:52 2001 > > Date: Sun, 18 Feb 2001 10:26:12 -0500 > > From: Mace <macef@optonline.net> > > Subject: A MOMENT OF SILENCE > > To: First Generation Firebird-L <Firebird-L@oakmediacreations.com> > > MIME-version: 1.0 > > X-MIMEOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.3018.1300 > > Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT > > Importance: Normal > > X-Priority: 3 (Normal) > > X-MSMail-priority: Normal > > > > First Generation Firebird-L Mailing List > > > ........................................................................ > > > > > > This message goes out to all of the list members who love to = drive > > their BIRDS....Lets take a moment of silence to remember Dale = Earnhardt. > > Even though it wasn't through PONTIACS...He was a true MOTOR = HEAD..Like > all > > of us.... > > Mace > > 69 350 Drop Top > >
(back) Subject: 2' Drop Spindles From: "Eric Toledo" <erictol@pacbell.net> Date: Sun, 18 Feb 2001 13:54:56 -0800 I recieved and installed my new front end kit along with the 2" drop spindles from PST. First thing is the car looks great, and now for the problem. The wheels and tires I have on now (American Mag 15x7) with P235/60 rub against the Tie Rods in the front. I tried to use Al's 14x7 Rally 2 but they too still rub. Has anyone gone with the 2" drop spindles? If so, what kind of wheels do you have? I went to America's Tire Company and they said that the wheels need to come out some more and I could use these ugly 15x6 wheels and use 15x8 in the back. Of course it was about $1,500 for the whole deal (wich in my mind is WAY too much for something non original). Could I use the Rally 2 15x6 with this new conversion? Thanks for the help, Eric
(back) Subject: Re: difference between 455 and 350 From: <PStonebrak@aol.com> Date: Mon, 19 Feb 2001 01:29:17 EST Don't you just love it! the only replacement for cubic inch displacement = is money and lots of it. Pete
(back) Subject: Re: RE treatment of bare metal From: <PStonebrak@aol.com> Date: Mon, 19 Feb 2001 01:39:18 EST Muratic acid does a number on rust and it can be diluted. It is also cheap = but you will need to coat it with some paint. at least any spots. Pete