First Generation Firebird-L Mailing List Re: How do I remove by "x1r1 x" <x1r1@hotmail.com> RE: Firebird-L Digest #1762 by "Brett Luikkonen" <brett@cisdirect.com> Firebird Emblems by "Erich Wagner" <ewagner@advancepac.com> Another engine problem by "AL ROJAS" <amr@appsig.com> Re: How do I remove - spare tailight stud by <JGeigel@aol.com> Re: Repro Rally II Wheels by <Framair@aol.com> '67 Traction Bars by "Geoff Martin" <Geoff@firstgenfirebird.org> fuel line replacement by "Gary Patrick" <Gary@tcworks.net> Re re traction bars by "Gary Patrick" <Gary@tcworks.net> Exhaust Questions by "Erich Wagner" <ewagner@advancepac.com> Re: Firebird Emblems by "Stu Langer" <stumann@inlink.com> Taxes by "Shawn Jeppson" <sfjeppson@earthlink.net> RE: Firebird-L Digest #1762 by "Brian Sargent" <bjsbird1@yahoo.com> Re: Repro Rally II Wheels by "Bob Cisneros" <Bob.Cisneros@ebay.sun.com> Ram air cleaner assembly by "Shawn Jeppson" <sfjeppson@earthlink.net> Ebay bidding- sniping d/l by "Steve" <poncho68sa@hotmail.com> Re: Exhaust Questions by "Just Rod" <pjozif@hotmail.com> Re: My poor Poncho! by "Just Rod" <pjozif@hotmail.com> Re: Rochester puking.... by <hugoba@apcom.com>
(back) Subject: Re: How do I remove From: "x1r1 x" <x1r1@hotmail.com> Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2001 13:34:30 -0800 DOH! looks like the previous owner broke off the tab with the slot = without figuring that out Rowan >From: "John Wern" <jwern@gw.total-web.net> >Rowan - The studs are removeable. You can take them out and put them = back >in. They kinda fit in a "slot" If that makes any sense. John. > > >Just what I was looking for on the trim, thanks. > >With the Taillight mount, I need the framework that holds the 4 studs, = as > >one of the studs has broken off of my car, causing a leak around the > >taillight. > >Rowan > > > >>From: Gary Patrick <Gary@tcworks.net> > >> > >>Subject: How do i remove... > >>I'd like some tips on removing these... > >>Raingutter chromes > >>the taillight mounting frame > >>hope to hurt them as little as possible. > >>Thanks > >>Rowan > >>_____________________ > >> > >> > >> > >>Rowan,try this for removing stainless rain gutter trim. > >>Find a old fashion bottle (beer can) opener. > >>the cheapy kind like they used to give with a > >>case of beer. > >>Wrap the bottle cap end with a few layers > >>of masking tape, covering the hooked part and the > >>rest of it to prevent dents and scratches in stainless. > >>Start at front end and slowly work the opener upward > >> and towards the rear ,only doing about an inch at a time. > >>dont leave it hanging by itself when you get about half way or it will > >>bend. > >>Its good to have an extra set of hands when removing or installing = this > >>trim. > >>This is one item thats much easier to install than remove. > >> > >>As for the tailights theres 4 nuts to remove and its free. > >>Gasket can sometimes make it stick to inner body. > >>Gary > > _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
(back) Subject: RE: Firebird-L Digest #1762 From: "Brett Luikkonen" <brett@cisdirect.com> Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2001 14:26:01 -0600 Subject: Re: Johnny Lightning 67 Birds From: "Brian Sargent" <bjsbird1@yahoo.com> Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2001 13:19:50 -0800 (PST) Brett, Where up here did you find them? Target? Thanks Brian 69 conv. The first few I found at Target in Fed Way. Both the White and the gold, but last night I scored on 3 white ones at Fred Meyer's. Look for the out of the way ones, like Lynwood, Bothell, Fed Way, Renton etc... Toy's R Us seems to never have them... Happy Hunting! - Brett
(back) Subject: Firebird Emblems From: "Erich Wagner" <ewagner@advancepac.com> Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2001 11:13:56 -0500 Earlier this week there was a thread about painting emblems. I did a little research and found that the process used to make the Firebird emblems is called Cloisonn=E9. This is the term that Ames uses in their catalogue also. I decided to look into repairing them after I saw the prices for emblems in Ames! Some references call them enameled emblems. Enameling requires a powdered colorant that is baked on. I went on the internet trying to see if there was a way to duplicate the clear plastic inserts that seem to have fallen out of every =93bird=94 = that I have seen. I wasn=92t too successful but I did find a site www.emblemagic.com <http://www.emblemagic.com/> that restores old emblems. It looks pricey but from the looks of their website very first rate. They did mention something about polyurethane plastic. I was wondering if anybody knew of any resins that could be poured onto the emblem that would harden and stay clear, almost like the stuff that was popular several years ago that you could pour into a mold around a bird skeleton etc to preserve it. Any observations or suggestions? Erich =9267 Convertible 326
(back) Subject: Another engine problem From: "AL ROJAS" <amr@appsig.com> Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2001 14:25:30 -0800 I just installed my new HEI on my 350 and it was working fine for a few days. Then I started playing with the carb (Edlebrock) jetting to rich up a lean problem. The car was running fine (drove it for several miles to work). When leaving work (engine cold) the engine started fine, then all of a sudden very rough idle. I inspected the new HEI cap and wires and everything looked perfect. I thought I fowled a spark plug cause I could remove distributor wires from 2 cylinders and the engine didn't drop RPM. I replaced all the plugs and the same problem exists. The 2 dead cylinders are next to each other (4&6), I may have a dead one on the odd bank as well. This is a low compression engine. I'm thinking about doing a compression test next. Also, the car seems to have power at WOT. Any ideas? Al
(back) Subject: Re: How do I remove - spare tailight stud From: <JGeigel@aol.com> Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2001 17:50:42 EST If you need a spare tailight stud, I've got one to send for free. Just = email me the address. Joe Geigel
(back) Subject: Re: Repro Rally II Wheels From: <Framair@aol.com> Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2001 18:17:53 EST Interesting info on the wheels Bob- Thanks for sharing. Ever since I first saw an ad for repro Rally IIs I thought to myself... "Self, why would someone reproduce something that was produced in the millions over many years ?" Back when I lived in S.Calif. ('83-'87), Rally II wheels were everywhere. You could buy a set of 4 at practically any Pick-A-Part for $20 set. There was even one yard near Pomona that built their entire 'fence' out of wheels; many of which were Rally IIs (and some Rally Is). Even since those 'good ole days', I've considered Rally IIs difficult to = find. Here in Michigan, there are plenty around; a trip to any swap meet will = show that. I can remember many times being offered a set of Rally IIs by = someone cleaning out their garage... and saying "no thanks" because I already had 5-10 sets of them. Having babbled on about all of THAT, I suppose I would have to agree that over time, even a supply of common things will dry up. I would say that the most practical reason for reporducing them is for convenience. People don't want to scrounge through junk yards or even = swap meets sometimes. They don't want to refurbish, sand blast, repaint. = Also, there is the problem of a bent rim (most of which can be repaired). = Anyhow, that's my opinion. People want something that they can pull out of a box = and use or install. Me, being a tightwad, I would be the type scrounging through junk yards & swap meets and I'd find a set for $40. ;). I would restore them myself = and the finish would be better than new (yet correct). As for billet wheels... before I spent $1300 on these, I'd probably buy a = set of Hurst wheels. Now THAT'S a wheel that should definitely be = reproduced. Two items in my opinion that are excellent candidates for reproduction.... - '64 Pontiac/GTO Custom Sport Steering Wheel (nicest steering wheel ever made) - Hurst wheels from the 60's (nicest wheel ever made) I know that a few years ago, there were rumors about the Hurst wheels = being reproduced but many said such a project was cost prohibitive. I would think that if a big enough company took on this project and used today's technology, a very accurate duplicate of the Hurst wheel could be made. If something is popular and has the potential to be sold in a large = quantity, the individual price doesn't have to be so high resulting in even more potential sales. However, IF a company (or individual) does not choose to mass-produce something AND they are looking for a huge return on their investment, = chances are the item will never be reproduced. Welp, see ya later... John FRamair@aol.com Semper Fi Ephesians 4:32
(back) Subject: '67 Traction Bars From: "Geoff Martin" <Geoff@firstgenfirebird.org> Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2001 18:38:54 -0500 >From the FAQs: http://FirstGenFirebird.org/firebird/FAQ/suspen_steer/suspension.html ------------------ A: 68s didnt have traction bars. 67s breakdown: * OHC-6 1bbl auto. none (exception is rear end ratio 323 or higher) OHC-6 1bbl man. RH side * OHC-6 4bbl. auto. RH side * OHC-6 4bbl. man. both sides * V-8 2&4bbl. auto. RH side * V-8 2&4bbl. man. both I also found that the rear end ratio or type in this case determined the option of one or two bars or radius rods. i.e. if a car has a 4 pinion rear end it will have both bars. this is for posi and open 4 pinion rears. ------------------ Hope this helps - Geoff '68 Mayfair Maize Firebird 350 Convertible <http://FirstGenFirebird.org/show/closeup.mv?CarID=3D46> <Geoff@FirstGenFirebird.org>
(back) Subject: fuel line replacement From: "Gary Patrick" <Gary@tcworks.net> Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2001 18:55:01 -0500 Subject: One Piece Fuel Lines From: <F119flight@aol.com> Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2001 01:30:59 EST I want to replace my fuel lines (supply and return) with new stainless = ones but not sure if I can route them with the body on the frame and the engine installed. Anybody done this w/o turning them into $100 pretzels? Steve, 68 350 Convertible Steve it can be done but the car needs to be on a lift. the higher the better. You will have to do a bit of twisting and its better to have a helper. Better check when you order the fuel line that goes from gas tank to fuel pump. Some reproers bend it in the middle for shipping ease. You are smart to replace with stainless. Of course most restos lead a sheltered life compared to the first 30 years. Gary
(back) Subject: Re re traction bars From: "Gary Patrick" <Gary@tcworks.net> Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2001 19:13:58 -0500 Subject: Re: Traction bars From: <hugoba@apcom.com> Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 22:35:37 -0800 (PST) I believe that the single bar came on all 67's except the 400's. Please correct me if I'm wrong. Hugo Everyone turn to page 4-4 of your 67 Firebird service manual supplement. (you do have one right?). It shows the listing for all that came with dual bars. As a rule 326,400s and Sprints with stick shift had dual bars. I think the chart states that all auto equipted ones were single bars, but have seen that its more of a function of rear end ratio not trans choice. From what Ive seen any rear with the 4 pinion HD carrier 3.36 and higher had dual bars.. Gary
(back) Subject: Exhaust Questions From: "Erich Wagner" <ewagner@advancepac.com> Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2001 11:42:42 -0500 I will be putting a complete exhaust system on my bird (=9267 326, auto Convert) this spring (my neighbors will be pleased, for some reason they don =92t like the sound of an engine just with temporary flex pipes coming off = the manifolds!) I intend to go with a dual exhaust, not the original single. I see where Ames offers complete exhaust systems as well as some optional mufflers. A few questions: 1) Would this group recommend I buy an exhaust system such as the one listed in Ames and install it myself? I=92m not an automotive expert but with some help I have been able to disassemble the whole motor and put it back again (even better, it runs and I don=92t have too many parts left over). = I do not have any welding equipment and I would have to install the system with the car on blocks and jack stands. Is this doable for a man of my =93talents=94 and equipment? 2) If I do go this route what would you recommend I buy? Does anybody recommend stainless steel? I want to keep the car as original looking as possible and I want a little sound but not a lot. 3) The other option is to have a local muffler place make me a dual exhaust system. What is everyone=92s thoughts on this? Thanks, Erich =9267 326 Convertible
(back) Subject: Re: Firebird Emblems From: "Stu Langer" <stumann@inlink.com> Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2001 18:55:37 -0600 How about those 'stained glass kits' that they sell at craft stores (Michael's, Ben Franklin, etc.). They have plastic granules similar to grains of sugar, but slightly smaller, in a variety of colors that you = place in the framework and then bake it. The plastic melts into the frame and looks like colored glass, it remains transparent. That might be worth trying. Stumann >Earlier this week there was a thread about painting emblems. > >I did a little research and found that the process used to make the >Firebird >emblems is called Cloisonn=E9. This is the term that Ames uses in their >catalogue also. > >I decided to look into repairing them after I saw the prices for emblems >in >Ames! > >Some references call them enameled emblems. Enameling requires a = powdered >colorant that is baked on. > >I went on the internet trying to see if there was a way to duplicate the >clear plastic inserts that seem to have fallen out of every =93bird=94 = that I >have seen. I wasn=92t too successful but I did find a site >www.emblemagic.com ><http://www.emblemagic.com/> that restores old emblems. It looks pricey >but from the looks of their website very first rate. > >They did mention something about polyurethane plastic. I was wondering = if >anybody knew of any resins that could be poured onto the emblem that = would >harden and stay clear, almost like the stuff that was popular several >years >ago that you could pour into a mold around a bird skeleton etc to = preserve >it. > >Any observations or suggestions? > >Erich > >=9267 Convertible 326
(back) Subject: Taxes From: "Shawn Jeppson" <sfjeppson@earthlink.net> Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2001 20:08:09 -0700 I just did my taxes on Turbo Tax and found out that hobbies are = deductible. So now I have an excuse to spend even more money on my bird. Shawn 67 coupe
(back) Subject: RE: Firebird-L Digest #1762 From: "Brian Sargent" <bjsbird1@yahoo.com> Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2001 17:25:53 -0800 (PST) Just got back from Target in Woodinville. No Birds but I did find a 64 and 65 GTO Brian --- Brett Luikkonen <brett@cisdirect.com> wrote: > First Generation Firebird-L Mailing List > .......................................................................... > Subject: Re: Johnny Lightning 67 Birds > From: "Brian Sargent" <bjsbird1@yahoo.com> > Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2001 13:19:50 -0800 (PST) > > Brett, Where up here did you find them? Target? > Thanks > Brian 69 conv. > > The first few I found at Target in Fed Way. Both the > White > and the gold, but last night I scored on 3 white > ones at > Fred Meyer's. Look for the out of the way ones, like > Lynwood, > Bothell, Fed Way, Renton etc... Toy's R Us seems to > never > have them... > > Happy Hunting! - Brett > __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35 a year! http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
(back) Subject: Re: Repro Rally II Wheels From: "Bob Cisneros" <Bob.Cisneros@ebay.sun.com> Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2001 17:53:17 -0800 (PST) John (FRamair) writes: >Ever since I first saw an ad for repro Rally IIs I thought to myself... > >"Self, why would someone reproduce something that was produced in >the millions over many years ?" and then... >Here in Michigan, there are plenty around; a trip to any swap meet will = show >that. I can remember many times being offered a set of Rally IIs by = someone >cleaning out their garage... and saying "no thanks" because I already = had >5-10 sets of them. You make some very valid points. As to why someone would fork over money for repro wheels when they may be found very cheap, I'll contribute the following: -Powdercoat finish. Lasts so much longer than any paint you can buy in a can or spray out of a gun. Locally, it costs about $50 a wheel to get one color. Then you've got to paint the charcoal areas yourself. While you still come out ahead by a few dollars if you start with used wheels, assuming none are bent or out of round, there is the time involved in doing all of this. -Special Sizes & offsets. As far as I know, Pontiac never built a 15x8 Rally II. Wheel Vinqtiques does, and you can special offsets too. This was my motivation for going this route. >Me, being a tightwad, I would be the type scrounging through junk yards & = >swap meets and I'd find a set for $40. ;). I would restore them myself = and >the finish would be better than new (yet correct). Sure. If you can find, them, do it well, and be happy with the results, what could be better? No arguement here. Each owner has their own set of ecomonics to work with. For many, time and elbow grease are in abundance, while money isn't. For others, it makes more sense to spend the money and open the box. To each his or her own. -BoB San Jose, CA 1968 Convertible bob.cisneros@Sun.COM
(back) Subject: Ram air cleaner assembly From: "Shawn Jeppson" <sfjeppson@earthlink.net> Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2001 21:04:36 -0700 Does anybody know of a reason that a 68 RA air cleeaner assembly wont fit = a 67? I found one for sale, but I want to make sure it will work before I = buy and ship it. Shawn 67 coupe
(back) Subject: Ebay bidding- sniping d/l From: "Steve" <poncho68sa@hotmail.com> Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2001 21:07:43 -0500 I did a little research and found this free download, it is rated at 95% thumbs-up, But I have not used it yet. http://download.cnet.com/downloads/0-3356748-100-2807201.html?tag=3Dst.dl.1= 000 1-103-1.lst-7-1.2807201 ----- Original Message ----- From: <kmorrow@socket.net> To: <Firebird-L@oakmediacreations.com> Sent: Friday, February 16, 2001 2:35 PM Subject: Re:Ebay bidding- sniping > First Generation Firebird-L Mailing List > = ......................................................................... > Read closely, I'm about to reveal one of my best ebay secrets!!! You = guys are > correct. You are being snipered by an automatic bid program that is = faster than > any human. I only learned about it after having it done to me, 15 = seconds to go > and bam out of no where you get shot down. Lots of diehard ebay buyers use > these It is perfectly legal and accepted by ebay- they can't stop it but they > don't just tell programmers how to do it. The best one I have found is from > etusa.com, costs $10 and updates are free. It is called turbobid. Here's how it > works. Add the items you are interested in to your favorites(bookmark = it) as > you browse ebay. The program pulls the items from your favorites. Seven minutes > before auction end it automatically dials up and connects to your isp. = It then > synchronizes with ebay time. It sends out a couple test pings and = adjusts for > internet lag time- the net is slower during peak hours. You set the = snipe time, > can be down to 15 seconds. It bids at that time automatically by sending = a > packet to ebay with your user name and max bid. It only bids what it = takes to > win but with ebay's proxy bidding it keeps going until it hits your max = on that > item. It does not use your browser at all, it sends directly to ebay. Be > careful when you set your max bids, it really works too well!!! > > Kane > kmorrow@socket.net > >
(back) Subject: Re: Exhaust Questions From: "Just Rod" <pjozif@hotmail.com> Date: Sat, 17 Feb 2001 02:15:42 -0000 hey without the right equipment i wouldn't fool around too much or the finished product might not satisfy. I would get a custom bent unit from a local muffler shop, as long as they are experienced and competent. I would = suggest t-304 piping 2 1/4", mandrel bent with an H-pipe to even exhaust pulses and a set of walker quiet flow mufflers, or flowmasters new quiet style muffler. It will still give a healthy note, but wont be annoying,it should cancel out all crackles and exhaust brap- the most annoying blue bottle attribute! hope this helps Rod _________________________________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com.
(back) Subject: Re: My poor Poncho! From: "Just Rod" <pjozif@hotmail.com> Date: Sat, 17 Feb 2001 02:23:42 -0000 Uhhmmm this is a joke right>? Rod >Rowan, You know I'm not a Purist, but I recommend the Chevy engine for >the buddiy's BMW, and get a Jag V12 for your 'bird... > >Just thinking out loud, Glenn aka birdman > > _________________________________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com.
(back) Subject: Re: Rochester puking.... From: <hugoba@apcom.com> Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2001 18:46:48 -0800 (PST) Hey, another successful rochacha revival! Good for you John. Hugo > From Firebird-L@oakmediacreations.com Fri Feb 16 12:08:15 2001 > From: "John Wern" <jwern@gw.total-web.net> > To: "First Generation Firebird-L" <Firebird-L@oakmediacreations.com> > Subject: Re: Rochester puking.... > Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2001 15:02:33 -0500 > MIME-Version: 1.0 > Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit > X-Priority: 3 > X-MSMail-Priority: Normal > X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V4.71.1712.3 > > First Generation Firebird-L Mailing List > = ......................................................................... > Well - After a rebuild kit from Pep Boys ($22.00) and going to the local > library for "How to tune and adjust your carburator" -- I read a = little > and then I took the carb apart and put it back together. She leaks no = more! > I think the problem was that the "shut off pin" hook, that connects to = the > float bar, had come disconnected. Thanks Hugo and Rowan. I would have > never atempted anything like that before. It was so easy. The hardest > part was getting the metering sticks back through the jets. Thanks = again > John. > -----Original Message----- > From: hugoba@apcom.com <hugoba@apcom.com> > To: Firebird-L@oakmediacreations.com <Firebird-L@oakmediacreations.com> > Date: Thursday, February 15, 2001 11:16 PM > Subject: Re: Rochester puking.... > > > >First Generation Firebird-L Mailing List > = >......................................................................... > >John, > > > >There's two likely causes for that. One is a punctured float and the = other > is a > >bad float valve (possibly some junk in there preventing it from = closing). > >You basically have to take it apart to see if the float (one of them) = has > >sunk or you may have to remove them and shake them to see if there is = gas > in > >them. > > > >Fixing a punctured float is a PITA but it's doable. > > > >Hugo > > > >> From Firebird-L@oakmediacreations.com Thu Feb 15 13:10:32 2001 > >> From: "John Wern" <jwern@gw.total-web.net> > >> To: "First Generation Firebird-L" <Firebird-L@oakmediacreations.com> > >> Subject: Rochester puking.... > >> Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 15:03:45 -0500 > >> MIME-Version: 1.0 > >> Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit > >> X-Priority: 3 > >> X-MSMail-Priority: Normal > >> X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V4.71.1712.3 > >> > >> First Generation Firebird-L Mailing List > >> = ......................................................................... > >> Anybody got a clue as to why my carb just started shooting out gas? I = was > >> cruizing along, Kinda gave it some gas in the passing lane and she = kinda > >> coughed her self out. I smelled gas real bad. I opened the hood = and > there > >> is gas all over the carb and down the sides. I take off the air = cleaner > >> element and it's all over the place. I let it sit a while and it = starts > up > >> pretty quick but - same thing Gas just coming out all over the place. > Any > >> Rochester guy out there? John. >