First Generation Firebird-L Mailing List Re: Springs and hardware by "Bob Cisneros" <Bob.Cisneros@ebay.sun.com> Re: Interesting item on eBay web site item#552850220: 1967 68 69Firebird by <JGeigel@aol.com> Re: Bills Birds by <JGeigel@aol.com> Re: Interesting item on eBay web site item#552850220: 1967 6869F irebird by "Doug" <dcharnley@mediaone.net> non-Firebird help by "Glenn Uettwiller" <birdman@gdi.net> Ball joint removal tool $29.99 by "AL ROJAS" <amr@appsig.com> Re: non-Firebird help by "Harkness Clan" <harknessclan@home.com> Re: Cam properties by <Paddy68@aol.com>
(back) Subject: Re: Springs and hardware From: "Bob Cisneros" <Bob.Cisneros@ebay.sun.com> Date: Thu, 8 Feb 2001 16:30:47 -0800 (PST) Al Rojas writes: >I'm about to start upgrading my rear springs. I was wondering if buying >direct from Eaton was the best way to go. I've heard about springs >raising the rear end too high. What about shackles, bolts and other >stuff. My can is not a rust bucket, so most of my stuff is in good >shape. Al, I bought my springs from ESPO Springs `n' Things, and was quite happy with the results. Along with the springs, I got new ubolts, pads, shackles, bushings, and t-bolts. Everything arrived on time or even early, was not at all expensive, and worked fine. One of the better aspects was that the springs could be ordered with either stock height, lower, or higher than stock by what ever amount you specify. The ride is good and I believe that they get their springs from Eaton. As I've pointed out in the past, some spring suppliers will send you a generic spring that's really meant for a Nova which has a different ride height and spring rate than our cars. ESPO offers much better variety of options. Keep in mind that your present springs may have sagged a fair amount over the years. If you specify a lower than stock spring, don't be too suprised if you find that once the new springs are in place, your car will sit higher than before. <http://www.espo.com/> <http://www.eatonsprings.com/ With either ESPO, or Eaton themselved, you'll save quite a bit of money versus buying from one of the usual restoration parts retailers. -BoB San Jose, CA 1968 Convertible bob.cisneros@Sun.COM
(back) Subject: Re: Interesting item on eBay web site item#552850220: 1967 68 69Firebird 400... From: <JGeigel@aol.com> Date: Thu, 8 Feb 2001 19:46:48 EST I had an original hood with a tach hole in it. My car is documented and = came with the tach. Though it was a 350 hood, I believe the hole placement to = be the same as on a 400 hood. That does not match the hole placement of the hood on ebay. Joe Geigel
(back) Subject: Re: Bills Birds From: <JGeigel@aol.com> Date: Thu, 8 Feb 2001 20:05:46 EST Keith, I gave up on the repro quarters, but Franks in L.A. seems to have original = used coupe sets in stock. I bought a coupe and used them on my convert. Much, much better than any other alternative. Joe Geigel
(back) Subject: Re: Interesting item on eBay web site item#552850220: 1967 6869F irebird 400... From: "Doug" <dcharnley@mediaone.net> Date: Thu, 08 Feb 2001 21:47:19 -0500 Thanks Bob. I've had my tach for awhile and havn't gotten up the nerve to cut the hole yet. Soon soon soon...... Doug "Trimpe, Bob" wrote: > First Generation Firebird-L Mailing List > = ......................................................................... > Doug, > > I put a tach on my hood using the measurements from Ames. The hole = actually > nicks the cross brace in front of the hole (in other words, the tach = should > be closer to the nose). The one on e-bay does NOT cut into any bracing. = I > verified the hole location at last years Firebird nationals when I saw = an > original one-owner 400 with a factory tach. The hole was in the same = place > as mine -- at least as close as my eye could tell. > > Bob Trimpe > > -----Original Message----- > From: Doug [mailto:dcharnley@mediaone.net] > Sent: Wednesday, February 07, 2001 10:58 PM > To: First Generation Firebird-L > Subject: Re: Interesting item on eBay web site item#552850220: 1967 68 > 69Firebird 400... > > What make you say that? > > Doug > > "Trimpe, Bob" wrote: > > > Me agrees with you.. > > > > Bob Trimpe > > > Me thinks the tach hole is not correct (if this is the red hood) you = are > > referring to. > > > > Joe Geigel > > > > - > > -
(back) Subject: non-Firebird help From: "Glenn Uettwiller" <birdman@gdi.net> Date: Thu, 08 Feb 2001 23:41:46 -0500 To all the professional drivability guys on the list: I just secured the fix to my not having a drivable convertible - I bought a 1992 Sunbird convertible, red with the white vinyl interior, white alloy wheels, and other white accents. It's got the 3.1L V6 with some weird drivability problems, and my automotive experience came to a grinding halt in 1982 so I need help. I believe it will need a transmission overhaul, and some tuning work. Odometer shows 84,500, seems legitimate. Check it out: TCC is randomly engaged, usually stays on even while stopped; I generally toss the shift to neutral while stopping. Feels like it's still in a forward gear when selecting reverse, because the car stalls immediately. Dropping into drive also kills engine, it takes a couple of 1500 RPM neutral drops to get moving, then engine lugs severely. If TCC not on, then highway RPMs are over 3000 @ 60 MPH and the shift patterns feel fine. Sometimes TCC engages, running about 2600 @ 60. Trans fluid is dark and smells some, but not like death. Steady state local (40-50 MPH) driving gives a stumble more like a plug/wire/coil-pack problem. When the TCC is stuck on and you lift from the pedal, the car bucks, sometimes badly. Tach needle jumps upwards a bit randomly at any steady speed. The oil pressure gauge is inoperative, but an aftermarket gauge is on board, reported to be linked to the fuel pump to stay running. The TEMP gauge stays very low, although while letting the car sit idling, I heard the fans kick on after a while. Fuel and Volt gauges read just fine. I will try to connect a scanner (MPSI ProLink) at work Friday or Saturday for input, but the "check engine" light only lights with key-on/engine-off. Thanks to the rest of you for humoring me for my newest "'bird"! Glenn aka birdman
(back) Subject: Ball joint removal tool $29.99 From: "AL ROJAS" <amr@appsig.com> Date: Thu, 08 Feb 2001 19:41:49 -0800 Harbor Freight is advertising a 3-in-1 service kit used to remove/install ball joints and universal joints. Lot number 38335. Price is $29.99 in store only. This is a cheap Chinese tool, but if your only going to do a few jobs, it could get you by. Al Al
(back) Subject: Re: non-Firebird help From: "Harkness Clan" <harknessclan@home.com> Date: Thu, 8 Feb 2001 21:27:30 -0800 Glenn,my 2-bits worth ----- Original Message ----- From: "Glenn Uettwiller" <birdman@gdi.net> To: "firebird list" <firebird-l@oakmediacreations.com> Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2001 8:41 PM Subject: non-Firebird help > > Check it out: > TCC is randomly engaged, usually stays on even while stopped; I > generally toss the shift to neutral while stopping. Feels like it's > still in a forward gear when selecting reverse, because the car stalls > immediately. Dropping into drive also kills engine, it takes a couple of > 1500 RPM neutral drops to get moving, then engine lugs severely. If TCC > not on, then highway RPMs are over 3000 @ 60 MPH and the shift patterns > feel fine. Sometimes TCC engages, running about 2600 @ 60. Trans fluid > is dark and smells some, but not like death. --This is quite common,the problem is usually the TCC solenoid (in the "side" cover), which sticks & prevents the TCC from disengaging.If the trans is a 3 spd auto (TH125c) you can just unplug the TCC (plug at front of trans),of course this will mean a slight increase in RPM at speed (with resulting loss of fuel economy,increase noise, yada,yada,yada).You must do this while its cold (before it has applied & stuck). OTOH,if you have the 4spd auto (th440) you CAN NOT leave it unplugged or trans will fail due to oiling issues. > Steady state local (40-50 MPH) driving gives a stumble more like a > plug/wire/coil-pack problem. When the TCC is stuck on and you lift from > the pedal, the car bucks, sometimes badly. Tach needle jumps upwards a > bit randomly at any steady speed. --Plug wires are common problem,also check fuel pressure &/or fuel filter restricted. The oil pressure gauge is inoperative, > but an aftermarket gauge is on board, reported to be linked to the fuel > pump to stay running. ---Can't remember if that is the case. The TEMP gauge stays very low, although while letting the car sit idling, = I heard the fans kick on after a while. ---Obviously you'll want to check the T-stat,these newer cars don't like running too cool. > > Glenn aka birdman > Good Luck, Bill H.
(back) Subject: Re: Cam properties From: <Paddy68@aol.com> Date: Fri, 9 Feb 2001 04:33:29 EST I have a new cam for my 350. I laid it next to the older one and took some measurements -- min and max for the intake and exhaust lobes. I saw something interesting. The new cam has more lift than the old cam (max. minus min.), but the lobes are not as tall! I finally figured out that the base circle of the lobes on the new cam is smaller than the old one. How can this be? The min dimension (base circle) should be just small enough to close the valve -- no smaller. If the base circle is smaller than that, all you would be doing is allowing the hydraulic lifter to uncompress. Any cam gurus out there? I want to understand this before I put the cam = in. As always, thanks for the help. Bob Trimpe I sent this question to a buddy of mine who owns a machine/speed shop and asked him to answer it. The following is his reply to my email. I hope = it helps since the question was so over my head that the answer made it spin = a little too. Good luck The smaller base circle on the new cam will either allow the hydraulic = piston to decompress on a fixed rocker arm system (ford or pedestal type) or will = mandate the rocker adjusting nut to be screwed down further on an = adjustable style (Chevy). If you have a pedestal style rocker make sure there is = enough travel left in the lifter to accommodate the difference in base circle. = If there is not enough travel, longer pushrods will be required. Think of the same situation (different base circles) with a solid lifter = cam. The lift is not determined by the height of the lobe but rather the difference in height between the heel and nose of the lobe. The smaller base circle on the new cam will either allow the hydraulic = piston to decompress on a fixed rocker arm system (ford or pedestal type) or will = mandate the rocker adjusting nut to be screwed down further on an = adjustable style (Chevy). If you have a pedestal style rocker, make sure there is enough travel left in the lifter to accommodate the difference in base circle. If there is not enough travel, longer pushrods will be required.