First Generation Firebird-L Mailing List HEI wiring by "Chris Porter" <fxstsb@pop.sttl.uswest.net> RE: 350 power tricks? by "Bryan & Mone' Young" <bryandmo@home.com> RE: physics 160 book v.s. common sense by "Bryan & Mone' Young" <bryandmo@home.com> Thanks to the Bay Area Firebird Guys .... by "Geoff Swavley" <geoffswavley@yahoo.com.au> Re: Bushing Replacement Question by "ray russell" <fastolbird@hotmail.com>
(back) Subject: HEI wiring From: "Chris Porter" <fxstsb@pop.sttl.uswest.net> Date: Mon, 05 Feb 2001 12:23:55 -0800 I'm concerned the stock wire will not supply enough current to the HEI. Is there another source to get high "switch" current for the HEI. Do I need to be concerned? In the past when I added HEI, I used the stock wire to activate a nice heavy duty relay. Ran a 12/14 guage fused wire right from the battery to the relay. I wanted to make sure it had all the voltage/amps it wanted. I think the stock wire will work, just not sure how many amps the HEI likes. You may get 12+ volt's on the meter, but amp draw is a different ball game. Good luck, hope this help's. Chris `68 350 H.O. Drop-top
(back) Subject: RE: 350 power tricks? From: "Bryan & Mone' Young" <bryandmo@home.com> Date: Mon, 5 Feb 2001 13:09:27 -0800 Thanks that sounds pretty easy to do. Bryan -----Original Message----- From: Firebird-L@oakmediacreations.com [mailto:Firebird-L@oakmediacreations.com]On Behalf Of Mace Sent: Monday, February 05, 2001 8:26 AM To: First Generation Firebird-L Subject: RE: 350 power tricks? First Generation Firebird-L Mailing List .......................................................................... Lift the rear of the car off the ground using jack stands of course. Chock the front wheels in addition. Put the car in neutral. place a mark using a crayon or piece of tape on the driveshaft and also on the rear wheel. You may need 2 people for this but as you spin the wheel 1 revolution, count = how many times the drive shaft spins. You may need to spin the wheel 2 times...It has been a while...Hope this helps.. Mace 69 350-DropTop How can I tell what gears are in the rear? I have a 10 bolt posi in mine. Bryan >
(back) Subject: RE: physics 160 book v.s. common sense From: "Bryan & Mone' Young" <bryandmo@home.com> Date: Mon, 5 Feb 2001 13:18:50 -0800 I just read what I wrote and wanted to qualify my answer before all hell breaks lose on here. The coefficiant of friction is taken with stopping in mind not starting. That may be what your physics book is referring to not acceleration but deceleration. To test a drag sled is used and weight. The size of the tires make no difference and that is why I think your physics book may be talking about the size of a tire not mattering as to friction = to stop. Acceleration is what everyone else seems to be looking at. Re-read = the statement and you will see that stopping is indeed what they are talking about. The physics book is not saying an 18 wheel truck will stop in the same distance as a passenger car. It is saying that the friction is the = same for both vehicles. The stopping distance then is extended by weight of the vehicle and the efficentcy of the brakes. Your physics book is correct with the point it is making. Again everyone look at the statement, it is talking about stopping not starting. Bryan -----Original Message----- From: Firebird-L@oakmediacreations.com [mailto:Firebird-L@oakmediacreations.com]On Behalf Of Bryan & Mone' Sent: Monday, February 05, 2001 10:04 AM To: First Generation Firebird-L Subject: Re: physics 160 book v.s. common sense First Generation Firebird-L Mailing List .......................................................................... Danny, A portion of your book is correct. I conduct collision reconstructions. In the real world friction is measured more by the type of roadway, weather conditions of the roadway and grade of the roadway. In effect the coefficient of friction is on a flat asphaultic concrete (Black Top) surface with warm weather a .7 therefore the book is correct. However the tire size and suspension matter in other effects dealing with physics. But the statement about friction is correct. The rest you will have to read on.... My 2 cents. Bryan Steve wrote: > > First Generation Firebird-L Mailing List > = ......................................................................... > unless of course you wrote the book. > ----- Original Message ----- > From: danny <dannyboylll@qwest.net> > To: First Generation Firebird-L <Firebird-L@oakmediacreations.com> > Sent: Tuesday, January 30, 2001 2:36 AM > Subject: physics 160 book v.s. common sense > > > First Generation Firebird-L Mailing List > > .......................................................................... > > i have come across something very interesting and troubling in my physics > > book. i am a sophomore physics major in albuquerque new mexico and there > is > > a paragraph in my physics book that claims that tire width and = diamater > has > > nothing to do with traction!!!!!! > > AND I QUOTE > > "Friction does not depend on the area of contact. so those extra wide > tires > > you see on some cars provide no more friction than narrower tires. = the > > wider tire simply spreads the weight of the car over a greater area to > > reduce heating and wear. simaliarly the friction between a truck and the > > ground is the same weather the truck has 4 tires or 18. more tires spread > > the load over more of a ground area and reduce the pressure per tire. > > interestingly stopping distance when brakes are applied is not = effected by > > the # of tires, but the wear that the tires experience." > > > > i found this very interesting. it is in black and white in my physics > book, > > so i have to believe it. now i know that a softer tire will grip the road > > better, and will not last as long. and the springy sidewalls of = slicks > will > > absorb some of the launch energy and release it later when the tire s have > > more traction, but it seems common sense that a wider tire would have more > > traction. well then again 500 years ago common sense would tell you that > > the earth was flat..... :>) > > > > -danny 68 400 coupe. new mex. > > > > > >
(back) Subject: Thanks to the Bay Area Firebird Guys .... From: "Geoff Swavley" <geoffswavley@yahoo.com.au> Date: Tue, 6 Feb 2001 08:34:22 +1100 (EST) Just a quick note to thank all of the guys: Hugo, Al, Bob, Andy, Brady, Dave (visiting!), Rowan, Mike for a great Californian Sunday afternoon ..... perfect winter sun (71 degrees!), top down cruising, and drinks and burgers at a 50-60's style diner ...... you guys sure know how to turn on that "American" hospitality!! Thanks heaps from an Aussie that now feels like he knows you guys even better! You have some nice cars and it doesn't matter if some of them are "works in project" ..... at least they are being saved from what appears to be the ever encroaching laws to get them crushed! Thanks again for a great afternoon ... and thanks Al for sourcing that brake proportioning valve for me ... you saved me alot of angst! See you guys on the list ..... oh .... I'll be back in another year for another wedding ..... if I don't see you sooner I'll make sure to catch up again then! thanks guys - it was great. Geoff Swavley ('68 firebird 400 4spd, '68 firebird 400 Ram Air 1 TH400) ___________________________________________________________________________= __ http://entertainment.yahoo.com.au - Yahoo! Entertainment - Feeling a little bored? Need some entertainment?
(back) Subject: Re: Bushing Replacement Question From: "ray russell" <fastolbird@hotmail.com> Date: Mon, 5 Feb 2001 15:38:11 -0600 lee writes..................... > = ......................................................................... > Hey Folks > > I am replacing a bunch of front end components, and I > decided to replace the old bushings in my upper and > lower control arms with PolyGraphite ones. > I know I had read a thread here before about others > doing this with a vise or something, but now that I am > doing this, I dont see how it could be done. Unless > you are talking about the lower control arms? > I am working on the upper control arms now, and man > the shaft is difficult to get out. I have put a cap > bolt into the end of the shaft, and I am bracing the > edge of the contol arm. Then I hit the shaft with my > hand sledge, and I am able to get the bushing to move > 1/4". When I do this though, I notice that the shaft > is not only pushing out the bushing it is also making > the bushing guide (part of the control arm) distort. > I don't think Hank done it this way :) > > Does anyone have a more pleasant way to R/R these > bushings?? I double checked the FAQ, and the web has > some information on this, but its the bushing > manufacture giving the info. They just say "remove > the old one, and put in the new one". Like its a > watch battery!!! > > Thanks much in advance > > Lee > > >> > buy new control arm shafts and simply hacksaw the old one in half and = remove the shaft then press out the old bushing. worked for me!! ray, 67 coupe www.hotrodder.com/fastolbird