First Generation Firebird-L Mailing List Re: Coolant recovery tank by "Attila Szabo" <Attila_Sz@excite.com> Re: 350 power tricks? by "Joe Brown" <jb.pb@gte.net> Need help with a part by "David Kiklis" <David_Kiklis@abtassoc.com> RE: Need help with a part by "Bryan & Mone' Young" <bryandmo@home.com> Windshield wiper motor problems by "Mark Wurtzel" <mwurtzel@flash.net> RE: 67 exhaust by "Mace" <macef@optonline.net> Re: 350 power tricks? by "Bryan & Mone'" <bryandmo@home.com> Thanks to all. It was a very good Night... by "John Wern" <jwern@gw.total-web.net> Re: physics 160 book v.s. common sense by "Bryan & Mone'" <bryandmo@home.com> Looking for a project. by <Duane_W_Aldrich@armstrong.com> Bushing Replacement Question by "Lee" <pyre400@yahoo.com> Re: Need help with a part by "Steve" <poncho68sa@hotmail.com> Rochester Q-Jet by "John Wern" <jwern@gw.total-web.net> HEI Battery Supply by "AL ROJAS" <amr@appsig.com> RE: 350 power tricks? by "Mace" <macef@optonline.net> RE: Bushing Replacement Question by "Mace" <macef@optonline.net> Re: Looking for a project. by "John Wern" <jwern@gw.total-web.net> Re: Bushing Replacement Question by "John Wern" <jwern@gw.total-web.net>
(back) Subject: Re: Coolant recovery tank From: "Attila Szabo" <Attila_Sz@excite.com> Date: Mon, 5 Feb 2001 04:51:39 -0800 (PST) John, The can is a Pep Boys overflow bottle. cost about $10-12, comes with a bracket and has molded plugs (for the line) on each side. neat little generic can... it could be a little smaller though, i just wanted to keep the radiator fluid from overflowing. i'll try to make a sketch of the mounting bracket location. (i'll get the P/N for the bottle too) 68 350 coupe Attila > Attila, The pics got here. I understand how yours is but well, coming up with a bottle's a different story. Is ther a part # on your bottle? Thanks John. _______________________________________________________ Send a cool gift with your E-Card http://www.bluemountain.com/giftcenter/
(back) Subject: Re: 350 power tricks? From: "Joe Brown" <jb.pb@gte.net> Date: Mon, 5 Feb 2001 08:23:55 -0800 Do not install a cam with more than 216 degrees of duration @ .050 , keep the cam around 204 to 212 for low end , if you go to high on duration you car will be slow . Hi-6 ignition , headers , stall converter , rear gear = to 3:23 , recurved distributor with adjustable vacuum . I had a 750 Holley on mine , made some jet tuning and it worked great , I only went with the 750 to help out on full throttle acceleration . I went from 16.1 to 15.2 with all the improvements mentioned . Joe
(back) Subject: Need help with a part From: "David Kiklis" <David_Kiklis@abtassoc.com> Date: Mon, 5 Feb 2001 09:24:25 -0500 Anyone here have a convertible parts car? I am missing a piece from the convertible frame. There is a strip of galvanized metal that sits in the second bow from the header. This strip slides through a pocket on the top and then is fastened to the bow with screws. Mine was missing when I went to replace the top. I know I can probably get this from Bill's birds but I'd thought I'd see if anyone had one or has anyone used anything else to replace this piece? David David Kiklis Director of Computer Services Abt Associates Inc. 55 Wheeler St. Cambridge MA 02138 617-520-3661 p 617-520-3640 f
(back) Subject: RE: Need help with a part From: "Bryan & Mone' Young" <bryandmo@home.com> Date: Mon, 5 Feb 2001 08:33:15 -0800 David, Sorry I don't have the part. however I am restoring my convertible and am planning to take the top frame off and repaint it. However I am not sure = if all the parts are there. I know it is a powwer top but that is not hooked = up I think. How did you know you were missing this part. Is there a scematic (sp?) of the top frame somewhere? Do you have a copy by chance? Let me = know and good luck finding the part. I know that the first crossover above the driver's head the left sidt connector has snapped. That is the small piece that is bent with holes on both ends to hold this frame rail onto the frame itself. If anyone has = this part let me know. thanks. Bryan -----Original Message----- From: Firebird-L@oakmediacreations.com [mailto:Firebird-L@oakmediacreations.com]On Behalf Of David Kiklis Sent: Monday, February 05, 2001 6:24 AM To: First Generation Firebird-L Subject: Need help with a part First Generation Firebird-L Mailing List .......................................................................... Anyone here have a convertible parts car? I am missing a piece from the convertible frame. There is a strip of galvanized metal that sits in the second bow from the header. This strip slides through a pocket on the top and then is fastened to the bow with screws. Mine was missing when I went to replace the top. I know I can probably get this from Bill's birds but I'd thought I'd see if anyone had one or has anyone used anything else to replace this piece? David David Kiklis Director of Computer Services Abt Associates Inc. 55 Wheeler St. Cambridge MA 02138 617-520-3661 p 617-520-3640 f
(back) Subject: Windshield wiper motor problems From: "Mark Wurtzel" <mwurtzel@flash.net> Date: Mon, 5 Feb 2001 08:37:44 -0800 I'm hoping someone can help me with this one as it has been absolutely driving me nuts all weekend! I'm not sure if it is relevant, but here is a little background = information. The care is a 1968 convertible. It has been sitting about a year while I built and installed a new motor among other things. It is in a garage but there is more moisture than I would like in the garage. Well, after installing the motor and firing the car up, the windshield wipers now work continuously whenever the ignition switch is on. Since this was not a problem when the car last ran, I suspect that the switch may have oxidized or something from the moisture and pulled it out. No such luck, it is fine! I read over the wiring diagram in my manual and sort of traced everything but I do not have enough knowledge of reading schematics to know just how things are supposed to work, so I was hoping someone could help me out! I had presumed that there would be + current running through the switch to the motor & washer but this does not seem to be the case so I am a bit confused as to how the system is supposed to work. O.k., so here's what I've found so far: With key on or off, none of the wires to the switch have current in them (black, lt blue & dk blue). With the key off, no power to any wires at wiper motor or washer. With key on, the black wire with yellow stripe is always hot. I'm not really sure where it comes from inside the car (fuse box, maybe) but from the firewall connector, it goes to a 2 pin connector a the washer, then = has a jumper to a 2 pin connector at the wiper motor. The manual shows a = jumper then going to a "downshift switch" with a line form that switch to the "downshift solenoid". The car never had a downshift solenoid since I've owned it (I remember looking into this after finding the loose wire for it!) so this should not be the problem. I do not recall seeing a downshift switch and I suppose there is a possibility that I removed this when pulling the old motor, though I do = not remember doing that!! There are just two unconnected wires on the harness right now that should go to this switch. Both other wires to the two 2 pin connectors do not have current flowing through them nor does the single black wire to the wiper motor. Finally, if you hit the "washer" button on the dash, you can hear a little click, like a relay activating, on the washer but nothing else happens. So, does anyone have any ideas of what might be wrong or suggestions of where else to look?!? Thanks in advance! Mark
(back) Subject: RE: 67 exhaust From: "Mace" <macef@optonline.net> Date: Mon, 05 Feb 2001 08:37:26 -0500 I purchased a exhaust system for my 69 convertable from flowtech systems. It is totally stainless steel and is available in 2" to 3 1/2" systems. I don't know if you are using headers on your car but I can tell you that the system is great. They do offer a setup for = convertables...just specify...Yoy can find them in the back of any hoy rod mag or any ATV = Store. (Auto Truck And Van) Mace 69 350 DropTop I 'm getting ready to install an exhaust on my 67 convertable. My problem is that there was nothing on it when I bought the car so I have no idea = what the system looks like. I would like to install a system that is close to original. I noticed in some of the aftermarket catalogs that most of the systems they offer will not work on convertables. Does anyone have a = photo or diagram that will show me what the exhaust looks like? Anyone have a suggestion on where I can buy a complete exhaust? What is the difference between a coupe and convertable axhaust? Jim 67convert.
(back) Subject: Re: 350 power tricks? From: "Bryan & Mone'" <bryandmo@home.com> Date: Mon, 05 Feb 2001 09:48:40 -0800 How can I tell what gears are in the rear? I have a 10 bolt posi in mine. Bryan geebjen@att.net wrote: > > First Generation Firebird-L Mailing List > = ......................................................................... > Rod, > > I think you've gotten some good advice so far.....let me add these > two things. > > 1) You most likely have a 2.56 or maybe 2.78 rear end. Upgrade > to a 3.23 or so. > > 2) If you have an auto trans, get a 2000 or 2400 stall torque > converter. > > These two changes alone made a huge difference on my wife's 350. > > Steve Lothridge > > > Subject: 350 power tricks? > > From: "Just Rod" <pjozif@hotmail.com> > > Date: Sun, 04 Feb 2001 02:17:38 -0000 > > > > what is the best way to liven up a 350 pontiac? other than a camshaft! > > a swap from 2bbl to 4bbl? > > exhaust? > > how about the other little tricks like a cold thermostat,open element, = k+n, > > carb spacer, high energy wires or a super coil?--- > > is there anything else? > > ROD
(back) Subject: Thanks to all. It was a very good Night... From: "John Wern" <jwern@gw.total-web.net> Date: Mon, 5 Feb 2001 13:16:20 -0500 You guys, Last night was a very historical night. I tuned the key on a sleeping beast. It's been sleeping for 25 years. Since 1976. One year = six months in my garage. I finished hooking everything up about 9pm At first = I couldnt get any response from the 400. I had not a clue as to why. It = took me a minute then I thought about the neutral safety switch. Could that be the reason? I reached down under the console and pulled out the = unattached harness. I completed the circuit of the two purple wires and then turned the key. Look out. She turned over & She started up. After buring all = of the paint off of the headers and the smoke dissapating just a bit. I = could see that she was running very good. No leaks. No fires. Nothing but a loud ass motor (and I mena loud ass motor - headers only) waking up after that extensive rebuild. Not to mention my neighbors BUT MY POINT IS = -- I could not have even thought about restoring this car without you guys. Thanks So much fellas. I mean that from my heart. John.
(back) Subject: Re: physics 160 book v.s. common sense From: "Bryan & Mone'" <bryandmo@home.com> Date: Mon, 05 Feb 2001 10:04:25 -0800 Danny, A portion of your book is correct. I conduct collision reconstructions. In the real world friction is measured more by the type of roadway, weather conditions of the roadway and grade of the roadway. In effect the coefficient of friction is on a flat asphaultic concrete (Black Top) surface with warm weather a .7 therefore the book is correct. However the tire size and suspension matter in other effects dealing with physics. But the statement about friction is correct. The rest you will have to read on.... My 2 cents. Bryan Steve wrote: > > First Generation Firebird-L Mailing List > = ......................................................................... > unless of course you wrote the book. > ----- Original Message ----- > From: danny <dannyboylll@qwest.net> > To: First Generation Firebird-L <Firebird-L@oakmediacreations.com> > Sent: Tuesday, January 30, 2001 2:36 AM > Subject: physics 160 book v.s. common sense > > > First Generation Firebird-L Mailing List > > = ......................................................................... > > i have come across something very interesting and troubling in my = physics > > book. i am a sophomore physics major in albuquerque new mexico and = there > is > > a paragraph in my physics book that claims that tire width and = diamater > has > > nothing to do with traction!!!!!! > > AND I QUOTE > > "Friction does not depend on the area of contact. so those extra wide > tires > > you see on some cars provide no more friction than narrower tires. = the > > wider tire simply spreads the weight of the car over a greater area to > > reduce heating and wear. simaliarly the friction between a truck and = the > > ground is the same weather the truck has 4 tires or 18. more tires = spread > > the load over more of a ground area and reduce the pressure per tire. > > interestingly stopping distance when brakes are applied is not = effected by > > the # of tires, but the wear that the tires experience." > > > > i found this very interesting. it is in black and white in my physics > book, > > so i have to believe it. now i know that a softer tire will grip the = road > > better, and will not last as long. and the springy sidewalls of = slicks > will > > absorb some of the launch energy and release it later when the tire s = have > > more traction, but it seems common sense that a wider tire would have = more > > traction. well then again 500 years ago common sense would tell you = that > > the earth was flat..... :>) > > > > -danny 68 400 coupe. new mex. > > > > > >
(back) Subject: Looking for a project. From: <Duane_W_Aldrich@armstrong.com> Date: Mon, 5 Feb 2001 13:21:41 -0500 Fellow 'Bird lovers, I have a friend who is in search of a project car. He wants a '67 = convertible with a 400. He would probably go for a '68 also, but his first choice is = a '67. He lives in the Lancaster PA area, but is willing to travel a bit. If = anybody knows of anything, please e-mail me off list, and I'll forward it on to = him. Thanks, Duane A. '69 coupe Duane_W_Aldrich@armstrong.com
(back) Subject: Bushing Replacement Question From: "Lee" <pyre400@yahoo.com> Date: Mon, 5 Feb 2001 11:07:12 -0800 (PST) Hey Folks I am replacing a bunch of front end components, and I decided to replace the old bushings in my upper and lower control arms with PolyGraphite ones. I know I had read a thread here before about others doing this with a vise or something, but now that I am doing this, I dont see how it could be done. Unless you are talking about the lower control arms? I am working on the upper control arms now, and man the shaft is difficult to get out. I have put a cap bolt into the end of the shaft, and I am bracing the edge of the contol arm. Then I hit the shaft with my hand sledge, and I am able to get the bushing to move 1/4". When I do this though, I notice that the shaft is not only pushing out the bushing it is also making the bushing guide (part of the control arm) distort. I don't think Hank done it this way :) Does anyone have a more pleasant way to R/R these bushings?? I double checked the FAQ, and the web has some information on this, but its the bushing manufacture giving the info. They just say "remove the old one, and put in the new one". Like its a watch battery!!! Thanks much in advance Lee __________________________________________________ Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35 a year! http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
(back) Subject: Re: Need help with a part From: "Steve" <poncho68sa@hotmail.com> Date: Mon, 5 Feb 2001 13:51:14 -0500 http://lightning.locl.net/homes/sapple/68CD/Doc/68fbmS13P45_50.max ----- Original Message ----- From: Bryan & Mone' Young <bryandmo@home.com> To: First Generation Firebird-L <Firebird-L@oakmediacreations.com> Sent: Monday, February 05, 2001 11:33 AM Subject: RE: Need help with a part > First Generation Firebird-L Mailing List > = ......................................................................... > David, > > Sorry I don't have the part. however I am restoring my convertible and = am > planning to take the top frame off and repaint it. However I am not sure if > all the parts are there. I know it is a powwer top but that is not = hooked up > I think. How did you know you were missing this part. Is there a = scematic > (sp?) of the top frame somewhere? Do you have a copy by chance? Let me know > and good luck finding the part. > > I know that the first crossover above the driver's head the left sidt > connector has snapped. That is the small piece that is bent with holes = on > both ends to hold this frame rail onto the frame itself. If anyone has this > part let me know. thanks. > > > Bryan > > -----Original Message----- > From: Firebird-L@oakmediacreations.com > [mailto:Firebird-L@oakmediacreations.com]On Behalf Of David Kiklis > Sent: Monday, February 05, 2001 6:24 AM > To: First Generation Firebird-L > Subject: Need help with a part > > > First Generation Firebird-L Mailing List > = ......................................................................... > > > > Anyone here have a convertible parts car? I am missing a piece > from the convertible frame. There is a strip of galvanized > metal that sits in the second bow from the header. This strip > slides through a pocket on the top and then is fastened to the > bow with screws. Mine was missing when I went to replace the > top. I know I can probably get this from Bill's birds but I'd > thought I'd see if anyone had one or has anyone used anything > else to replace this piece? > > David > > David Kiklis > Director of Computer Services > Abt Associates Inc. > 55 Wheeler St. Cambridge MA 02138 > 617-520-3661 p > 617-520-3640 f > >
(back) Subject: Rochester Q-Jet From: "John Wern" <jwern@gw.total-web.net> Date: Mon, 5 Feb 2001 14:39:13 -0500 Anybody got a good book on hooking up all of the vacums of the Rochester? Year 1977. I found a very good web-site for lots of general info on these carbs...but not what I'm looking for. http://www.freivald.org/~padgett/roch.htm Thanks for any info. John.
(back) Subject: HEI Battery Supply From: "AL ROJAS" <amr@appsig.com> Date: Mon, 05 Feb 2001 11:31:15 -0800 I just installed my new HEI. I noticed the HEI factory battery connector has a significantly larger wire size than the stock points voltage wire. I spliced the points battery wire anyway and didn't see any problems. I measured 12VDC at the HEI cap input, and 13VDC when I reved up the engine. I'm concerned the stock wire will not supply enough current to the HEI. Is there another source to get high "switch" current for the HEI. Do I need to be concerned? Thanks Al
(back) Subject: RE: 350 power tricks? From: "Mace" <macef@optonline.net> Date: Mon, 05 Feb 2001 11:25:54 -0500 Lift the rear of the car off the ground using jack stands of course. Chock the front wheels in addition. Put the car in neutral. place a mark using a crayon or piece of tape on the driveshaft and also on the rear wheel. You may need 2 people for this but as you spin the wheel 1 revolution, count = how many times the drive shaft spins. You may need to spin the wheel 2 times...It has been a while...Hope this helps.. Mace 69 350-DropTop How can I tell what gears are in the rear? I have a 10 bolt posi in mine. Bryan >
(back) Subject: RE: Bushing Replacement Question From: "Mace" <macef@optonline.net> Date: Mon, 05 Feb 2001 11:58:26 -0500 Lee, Yeah a better idea is to take them to your local automotive shop and let them do it with a press...I had mine done with poly for 10.00. It is easier than taking a chance destroying something Mace 69 350 Drop-Top Hey Folks I am replacing a bunch of front end components, and I decided to replace the old bushings in my upper and lower control arms with PolyGraphite ones. I know I had read a thread here before about others doing this with a vise or something, but now that I am doing this, I dont see how it could be done. Unless you are talking about the lower control arms? I am working on the upper control arms now, and man the shaft is difficult to get out. I have put a cap bolt into the end of the shaft, and I am bracing the edge of the contol arm. Then I hit the shaft with my hand sledge, and I am able to get the bushing to move 1/4". When I do this though, I notice that the shaft is not only pushing out the bushing it is also making the bushing guide (part of the control arm) distort. I don't think Hank done it this way :) Does anyone have a more pleasant way to R/R these bushings?? I double checked the FAQ, and the web has some information on this, but its the bushing manufacture giving the info. They just say "remove the old one, and put in the new one". Like its a watch battery!!! Thanks much in advance Lee __________________________________________________
(back) Subject: Re: Looking for a project. From: "John Wern" <jwern@gw.total-web.net> Date: Mon, 5 Feb 2001 15:26:30 -0500 Wow - reading that - Knowing that we will have yet another bird lover restore a Firebird makes my heart go pitter patter. Johns Wife. -----Original Message----- From: Duane_W_Aldrich@armstrong.com <Duane_W_Aldrich@armstrong.com> To: First Generation Firebird-L <Firebird-L@oakmediacreations.com> Date: Monday, February 05, 2001 3:02 PM Subject: Looking for a project. >First Generation Firebird-L Mailing List >......................................................................... > > >Fellow 'Bird lovers, >I have a friend who is in search of a project car. He wants a '67 convertible >with a 400. He would probably go for a '68 also, but his first choice is = a '67. >He lives in the Lancaster PA area, but is willing to travel a bit. If anybody >knows of anything, please e-mail me off list, and I'll forward it on to him. > >Thanks, >Duane A. >'69 coupe >Duane_W_Aldrich@armstrong.com > >
(back) Subject: Re: Bushing Replacement Question From: "John Wern" <jwern@gw.total-web.net> Date: Mon, 5 Feb 2001 15:31:59 -0500 Lee - Brother - watch battery it aint. Save your sanity. A year or so = ago I did exactly what you are doing now. 1. Tried to do it myself 2 Looked in the archives for some help. 3. Emailed the list. 4. Got some responses. 5. Tried them too. 6. Took it up to the machinst paid $50.00 and had them back in a few = hours. Save yourself my man. See step #6. John. -----Original Message----- From: Lee <pyre400@yahoo.com> To: First Generation Firebird-L <Firebird-L@oakmediacreations.com> Date: Monday, February 05, 2001 3:03 PM Subject: Bushing Replacement Question >First Generation Firebird-L Mailing List >......................................................................... >Hey Folks > >I am replacing a bunch of front end components, and I >decided to replace the old bushings in my upper and >lower control arms with PolyGraphite ones. >I know I had read a thread here before about others >doing this with a vise or something, but now that I am >doing this, I dont see how it could be done. Unless >you are talking about the lower control arms? >I am working on the upper control arms now, and man >the shaft is difficult to get out. I have put a cap >bolt into the end of the shaft, and I am bracing the >edge of the contol arm. Then I hit the shaft with my >hand sledge, and I am able to get the bushing to move >1/4". When I do this though, I notice that the shaft >is not only pushing out the bushing it is also making >the bushing guide (part of the control arm) distort. >I don't think Hank done it this way :) > >Does anyone have a more pleasant way to R/R these >bushings?? I double checked the FAQ, and the web has >some information on this, but its the bushing >manufacture giving the info. They just say "remove >the old one, and put in the new one". Like its a >watch battery!!! > >Thanks much in advance >