First Generation Firebird-L Mailing List Re : SF First Gen Get Together by "Dale J. Barkla" <systech@tig.com.au> Re: firebird manuals on cd by <Pzary3233@aol.com> Re: Jet-Hot headers [was: Sub frame connectors] by "Joe Brown" <jb.pb@gte.net> Re: Rally Wheel Masking Tape Kits by "Joe Brown" <jb.pb@gte.net> Re: member's list by "Bob Trimpe" <trimpe@fuse.net> Re: SF First Gen Get Together by "Bob Trimpe" <trimpe@fuse.net> Re: SF First Gen Get Together by "x1r1 x" <x1r1@hotmail.com> Re: Coil Spring Paint by "Lee" <pyre400@yahoo.com> Re: firebird manuals on cd by "Steve" <poncho68sa@hotmail.com> 68 turn signal problem by "Charles Hazelton" <chuckhazelton@surfree.com> Re: Firebird-L Digest #1694 by "Andy" <fbird68@ix.netcom.com> Re: what is the odds by "Daniel" <poncho40@sga.quik.com> Re: AMES WEB SITE by <PStonebrak@aol.com> Spreadsheet by "Tom McLaughlin" <thomas.mclaughlin@wmich.edu> Re: Year One Discounts by "David Kiklis" <David_Kiklis@abtassoc.com> RE: Firebird-L Digest #1732 by "Brett Luikkonen" <brett@cisdirect.com> RE: Rally Wheel Masking Tape Kits by "Trimpe, Bob" <TrimpeB@rajones.com> Re: '69 Trim Removal by "Jeff Lane" <JeffLane32@hotmail.com> Wood Dash Kit by "Carle Manley" <manley-carle@webtv.net> hot start problem? tThis is how to bypass the solenoid. by <BHA676@aol.com> Re : SF First Gen Get Together by <jrotman@rms.moore.com> Revell 68 Firebird by "by way of Geoff Martin, <Geoff@firstgenfirebird.org>" <WSherr Re: SF First Gen Get Together by "AL ROJAS" <amr@appsig.com> Re: 68 turn signal problem by "Steve" <poncho68sa@hotmail.com> Re: 68 turn signal problem by "AL ROJAS" <amr@appsig.com> Re: SF First Gen Get Together by "AL ROJAS" <amr@appsig.com>
(back) Subject: Re : SF First Gen Get Together From: "Dale J. Barkla" <systech@tig.com.au> Date: Fri, 2 Feb 2001 13:28:10 +1100 Guys, I'm green with envy. Hope you have a great day.....Dale '68 Conv.
(back) Subject: Re: firebird manuals on cd From: <Pzary3233@aol.com> Date: Thu, 1 Feb 2001 22:02:01 EST Bryan well you could copy and paste it into a word document and then copy it = onot a CD..... but that might be more trouble than you want to go through Paul Z 68 350 2 bbl coupe
(back) Subject: Re: Jet-Hot headers [was: Sub frame connectors] From: "Joe Brown" <jb.pb@gte.net> Date: Thu, 1 Feb 2001 22:26:19 -0800 Marty : I bought ceramic coated headers , they are coated inside and out . = I do not know what brand they where , but the ports where bigger than the = set I took off , they where Black Jack . Both headers looked the same but Jet Hots had bigger primary tubes and looked better . Jet Hot had them in = stock , I believe $325.00 shipped to my door . 610-277-2444 is the phone # I = have .. Joe
(back) Subject: Re: Rally Wheel Masking Tape Kits From: "Joe Brown" <jb.pb@gte.net> Date: Thu, 1 Feb 2001 22:28:46 -0800 I looks better if you cut out the tape yourself , masking kit is not an exact match . Joe
(back) Subject: Re: member's list From: "Bob Trimpe" <trimpe@fuse.net> Date: Thu, 01 Feb 2001 22:32:05 -0500 Nope, don't have you. Drop me a post with your info and I'll include you. Bob Trimpe Chris Porter wrote: > First Generation Firebird-L Mailing List > = ......................................................................... > Hey Bob, am I on that list ? > > Chris > `68 350 H.O. Drop-top > >
(back) Subject: Re: SF First Gen Get Together From: "Bob Trimpe" <trimpe@fuse.net> Date: Thu, 01 Feb 2001 22:34:36 -0500 MAN, I AM SO JEALOUS! Bob Trimpe AL ROJAS wrote: > First Generation Firebird-L Mailing List > = ......................................................................... > Guys, > > Hugo volunteered to have us meet at his shop in Sunnyvale (address to > follow in next email). He has several projects to show off. Meeting > time will be 1:30 PM, Sunday, Feb 4. He then suggested we cruise to > Campbell to the Happy Days Hamburger joint. That's less than 10 miles > from his shop. > > Here is a list of attendees that I'm aware of: > > Geoff Swavley (from Australia) > Hugo > Bob Cisneros > Al Rojas > Brady Esch > Dave Smith (from Austin, TX) > Mike (last name?) > Eric Toledo - maybe > Chuck Sellers - out of town > >
(back) Subject: Re: SF First Gen Get Together From: "x1r1 x" <x1r1@hotmail.com> Date: Thu, 01 Feb 2001 19:31:56 -0800 Sunnyvale is within criusing range for me. Count me in! Rowan, Freedom, CA >Guys, > >Hugo volunteered to have us meet at his shop in Sunnyvale (address to >follow in next email). He has several projects to show off. Meeting >time will be 1:30 PM, Sunday, Feb 4. He then suggested we cruise to >Campbell to the Happy Days Hamburger joint. That's less than 10 miles >from his shop. > >Here is a list of attendees that I'm aware of: > >Geoff Swavley (from Australia) >Hugo >Bob Cisneros >Al Rojas >Brady Esch >Dave Smith (from Austin, TX) >Mike (last name?) >Eric Toledo - maybe >Chuck Sellers - out of town > _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
(back) Subject: Re: Coil Spring Paint From: "Lee" <pyre400@yahoo.com> Date: Thu, 1 Feb 2001 19:58:21 -0800 (PST) Thanks for the reply John.. I Was thinking of using POR, I guess if it stays on thats the stuff to use. I have the new springs, they are phosphate black in color. I'm sure if I don't paint them they will get rusty after a season. So there is no need for you to take the picture unless you want to, since the springs are already black. I am going to be POR 15 Crazy this next week with all of the suspention parts I have replaced, and am painting:) Thats OK, this is what the stuff is for. I suppose that the POR15 has held up? You have not had any chip or flake off because of surface flexing? POR must be pretty plastic to stay on a spring. Thanks again for your input, I'll give it a swing Lee -------------------------- Lee- i put Por 15 on mine. I'll let take a pic if you want and post it. Let me know. It looks pretty good to me. John. __________________________________________________ Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35 a year! http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
(back) Subject: Re: firebird manuals on cd From: "Steve" <poncho68sa@hotmail.com> Date: Fri, 2 Feb 2001 00:22:55 -0500 Downloadable files for 68 Service Manual, 68 Fisher Body Manual, etc. is = in the works.I will keep you informed. Thanks, Steve ----- Original Message ----- From: Bryan & Mone' Young <bryandmo@home.com> To: First Generation Firebird-L <Firebird-L@oakmediacreations.com> Sent: Thursday, February 01, 2001 8:14 PM Subject: RE: firebird manuals on cd > First Generation Firebird-L Mailing List > = ......................................................................... > Is this manual able to be downloaded? I brought it up and I can browse = it > but can I download the entire manuel and put it on a cd? Anyone know? thanks > > Bryan > > -----Original Message----- > From: Firebird-L@oakmediacreations.com > [mailto:Firebird-L@oakmediacreations.com]On Behalf Of tim marcinek > Sent: Wednesday, January 31, 2001 6:42 PM > To: 'First Generation Firebird-L' > Subject: RE: firebird manuals on cd > >
(back) Subject: 68 turn signal problem From: "Charles Hazelton" <chuckhazelton@surfree.com> Date: Thu, 1 Feb 2001 21:57:28 -0800 Left turn signal works fine. Right side does not work at all. All park lights work, both front & rear. Brake lites work fine. Can hear the = flasher relay clicking (very fast) but the dash indicator does not light & neither the front or rear lights blink. Have checked for continuity in the park = lite housing, ensured a good metal to metal ground between the housing & body. The park lite contact gets 10 V but the turn signal contact gets about 1 = V. Anyone have an idea what to check for/how to correct this problem? TIA, Chuck Hazelton 68 350 Conv
(back) Subject: Re: Firebird-L Digest #1694 From: "Andy" <fbird68@ix.netcom.com> Date: Thu, 01 Feb 2001 23:28:16 -0800 Keith, Thanks for the feedback. I plan to spend more time discussing with the guy = what I want out of the rebuild, and will get that written estimate. As for keeping the boring to .30, does this mean that I will only get one = good rebuild out of this block? As far as I know, this will be the first = rebuild, but with 300K miles, could it need more than .30? Does it really make sense to rebuild the water pump? I figured I'd just = put a new lifetime warranty one on there. I have pretty good luck with = those. I was also going to have the oil and fuel pumps replaced. The fuel = pump is only a few years old, though. I do plan to detail the engine compartment at home while I wait. He said = it would take around three weeks. Don't need to do the front-end, though. = I recently rebuilt the entire suspension. Speaking of detailing, what's a good paint to use on the radiator filler = panels? Andy First Generation Firebird-L wrote: > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > > Subject: Re: Engine Rebuild > From: "K and J Arnold" <paintit@gate.net> > Date: Fri, 12 Jan 2001 18:48:07 -0500 > > Andy, > > As for price, I think you're right. It depends on where you are. > But it shouldn't fluctuate too far, remember- parts is parts. > A piston ordered from the same source shouldn't change prices crossing > state lines on the UPS truck. Hourly rates may be different, but > shouldn't be too far off. > $4,500 sounds a little steep. You are providing everything (except > the internals). Block,crank,heads,intake,carb,etc... > Unless you plan on going all out on primo exspensive stuff, I think > $3,500 would sound better. > The idea of getting it in writing is a GOOD ONE! > Also- how can someone give you a 'price', and then follow with 'not sure > until we open it up' in the same sentence. > Make sure you get a "not to exceed" statement, and a guarantee that > the job will be completed if it does go over the stated amount. > handle that part tactfully- you don't want the guy thinking you've > pegged him for a liar or cheat. > 95% of them are decent hardworking folks. > Some other advice: > Don't 'over bore', Ponchos run hot. Thin down the cylinder walls too > much, and it's time for the oven mitts. > Just enough to true everything up, but not over .30 > Now's a GREAT time to rebuild that water pump. Make sure everything's > ready for those higher RPM's and extra heat. (some people take it > off,rebuild the engine, then stick it back on. Missing out on a good > chance to fix it's ills.) OK- I did that once. > While you're at home anxiously waiting for the engine to return, why > not spend some quality time under the hood with some old tooth brushes > and cleaner. > Also a great time for new front end stuff like bushings,etc... > The list goes on and on. > I would try to keep the car at the house while the motor is at the > shop (unless he can turn it around in a couple days). It's safer, and > stuff can get done. It's worth the 2 trips on the roll back. That's why > we have AAA. > Oh- may want to do something about the oil and fuel pumps also. Don't > skimp in this area. If you are planning on seriously showing the car, > try to remain as stock as possible. If it's show and GO, I'd get the > best out there for the application. > Good luck, and let us know how it goes. > Also- check with the list about breaking in the new motor. Several > different theories are out there. May want to hear a couple before > deciding on one. > > Keith > 69 Convert
(back) Subject: Re: what is the odds From: "Daniel" <poncho40@sga.quik.com> Date: Fri, 02 Feb 2001 03:15:01 -0500 to all that replied thanks! I have replaced the calipers and the master cylinder Tomorrow I am going to replace the proportioning valve with the right one just found out it is not the right one disc drum and needed to be disc disc also going to finish flushing out the system with new fluid what came out of the old calipers looked like muddy water!!! am also going to check the rubber lines and replace them as well if they look anything worse than perfect thanks again what a great group!!!!!!!!! Daniel Ray
(back) Subject: Re: AMES WEB SITE From: <PStonebrak@aol.com> Date: Fri, 2 Feb 2001 03:36:06 EST Geoff, Maybe I worded it wrong. The Classical Pontiac site is sponsored by = Ames. Pete
(back) Subject: Spreadsheet From: "Tom McLaughlin" <thomas.mclaughlin@wmich.edu> Date: Fri, 02 Feb 2001 09:04:16 -0500 Hello Geoff, I noticed that I was not listed on the spreadsheet of Firebird owners. I am a member of the list, and would appreciate you adding my name and relevant data. Tom McLaughlin mclaughlint@wmich.edu Martin, MI 1967 400 Convertible (Silver with Black top)
(back) Subject: Re: Year One Discounts From: "David Kiklis" <David_Kiklis@abtassoc.com> Date: Fri, 2 Feb 2001 09:19:11 -0500 Just a little further info on this. My preference, like many others here is Ames. I have never had any problems at all. In the Boston area if I order on the web before 10:00 the package consistently arrives the next morning. In addition their entire catalog is on the web and easy to use. Can't complain David
(back) Subject: RE: Firebird-L Digest #1732 From: "Brett Luikkonen" <brett@cisdirect.com> Date: Fri, 2 Feb 2001 08:29:24 -0600 Hello all, I mentioned earlier that I'm picking up a 67, well the heads = are bad and to be able to make it a driver until I can find a 400/421/428/455 = to replace it with, I need to find some complete heads to put on it for now. I'm in the Seattle area and either would like to find a set to slap on or = if anyone on the list knows of a good shop in this area to have the existing one reworked? What my main question to you guy's is: What heads will work well or the best with the 67 326, mild rebuild, mild cam, 4bbl intake 600 edelbrock, hotter ignition? Should I look for #15's, #16's #48's etc with larger valves, will the compression work ok with 350/400 heads etc... any thoughts or advice would be great. I haven't messed with calculating compression ratio's yet... Thanks, Brett in Seattle!
(back) Subject: RE: Rally Wheel Masking Tape Kits From: "Trimpe, Bob" <TrimpeB@rajones.com> Date: Fri, 2 Feb 2001 11:51:32 -0500 I recently used some Eastman stainless steel-like coating for headers on = my exhaust manifolds. Looks really good and sticks up to 1200 deg. The = scariest thing about doing it was the label on the can says "contents partially unknown"! How'd you like to be breathing that? Does Eastman have a web site? Bob Trimpe -----Original Message----- From: Doug [mailto:dcharnley@mediaone.net] Sent: Thursday, February 01, 2001 4:55 PM To: First Generation Firebird-L Subject: Re: Rally Wheel Masking Tape Kits First Generation Firebird-L Mailing List .......................................................................... Most of the parts houses sell the kits. Check out the latest Eastman catalog. They sell Rallye II paints and masking kits. They alos say that the backs of the rally II wheels originally were sprayed black semi gloss. When the fronts were painted, the overspray went onto the semi-gloss = and remained there. Doug
(back) Subject: Re: '69 Trim Removal From: "Jeff Lane" <JeffLane32@hotmail.com> Date: Fri, 2 Feb 2001 12:57:27 -0500 Let me know how this goes. I also need to replace my side louvers, nose filler, headlight cushions, Firebird emblems, install the 400 bumper = emblem, and put on the new steel 400 hood I just got - after I have it painted. = I'm wondering if I should leave this all to a body man and save myself many frustrating days of labor. I wonder how much they'd charge to do all that, though... ----- Original Message ----- From: "ROY D LUMSDEN" <rlumsden@tampabay.rr.com> To: "First Generation Firebird-L" <Firebird-L@oakmediacreations.com> Sent: Monday, January 29, 2001 11:58 AM Subject: Re: '69 Trim Removal > First Generation Firebird-L Mailing List > = ......................................................................... > Oh, Steve, > > Are you in for a big job. Here's what I know: > > > * Front Fender "Louvers" > Next to impossible to remove without removing the fender. They are held = on > by stamped steel speed nuts. You may be able to squeeze you hand up = behind > the fender if you unbolt the fender from the chassis and the fender well > then pry the fender out. I hope you have thin arms. > > * Front Windshield Lower and Side Moldings > > The lower piece is bolted in place. Most of the bolts are under the cowl but > there is a clip on each end that is behind the top of the fender. I = found I > had to unbolt the fender to work mine back into place. The side moldings are > screwed in place but (if I remember correctly) the screws are behind the > window weather strip that runs up the pillar. > > > Also, any tips on removing the nose from the > > rubber headlight bezel cushions forward would be > > great > > Your not going to like this one but, to remove the rubber you have to > totally dissemble the front bumper setup. I recommend that you remove = the > whole bumper setup first by unbolting it from the bumper brackets that > extend up from the subframe. I think there are only six bolts/nuts = total. > three on each side. You can then lay the whole thing face down on a = couple > of saw horses to make it easier. If you have a die grinder, cut the locking > nuts off, not the bolt, just the nut. Don't even try to un-screw them > because you'll wind up breaking the plastic mounting tabs for the headlight > surround. Pay special attention to all the little spring washers and plastic > washers. The bolts are carriage type and have extra long shoulders. Save as > many as you can. As in everything... be patient and make notes. > > Funny thing is, after you remove the from bumper assembly and hood, the > fenders come off rather easily. You may consider this when trying to remove > the fender louvers and windshield chrome. > > > * Convertible Well Molding > > This is the one piece that I haven't removed, yet. I, too, would be > interested in anyone's advice. From what I hear, you have to unbolt it from > the well side but I really don't know. > > Well, I hope I didn't scare you. It's a lot of work but the details can > really make or break a great paint job. > > Good Luck, > Roy > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: <geebjen@att.net> > To: "firebird" <firebird-L@oakmediacreations.com> > Sent: Monday, January 29, 2001 8:46 AM > Subject: '69 Trim Removal > > > > First Generation Firebird-L Mailing List > > .......................................................................... > > Right now the firebird is in winter storage, but as > > soon as it comes out I'm going to be prepping it to > > be painted. The guy doing the body work/paint is > > a good friend and relative and I told him that I would > > get as much of the trim removed as possible and still > > have it legal to drive to his house. I'll only have > > the car a short time before I have to take it to his > > place, so I'll need to do this stuff pretty quickly. > > As I was thinking about removing some of this stuff, > > there were a few things that I can't think of how they > > are removed, especially without the car here to look > > at. If anyone could give me some tips so that I'm > > prepared when I get the car I'd appreciate it. > > > > The car is a '69 convertible btw. > > > > Here are the items: > > > > * Front Fender "Louvres" > > > > Do they just use a stud with a nut on the back? > > Will there be any trouble accessing the back side? > > > > * Convertible Well Molding > > > > Does this just "Pop" off, and if so, is there a > > special tool or trick that should be used so it > > doesn't get damaged? > > > > * Front Windshield Lower and Side Moldings > > > > Same questions as Convertible Well Molding..... > > > > > > Thanks in advance for any tips on these, or any > > other tricky moldings/trim pieces I may have missed. > > > > Also, any tips on removing the nose from the > > rubber headlight bezel cushions forward would be > > great. > > > > Steve Lothridge > > > > > > > > >
(back) Subject: Wood Dash Kit From: "Carle Manley" <manley-carle@webtv.net> Date: Fri, 2 Feb 2001 11:31:12 -0800 (PST) Has anyone found a kit to replace the stock with something? Thanks Carle '67 400 hard top
(back) Subject: hot start problem? tThis is how to bypass the solenoid. From: <BHA676@aol.com> Date: Fri, 2 Feb 2001 15:35:53 EST ok i was stranded last night for 3 hours because my car wouldnt start. I = had power so i figured its the solenoid. Finally a good old boy stopped and showed me how to bypass the solenoid with a screwdriver. All he did was = lay it across the positive battery cable post on the solenoid terminal post = and the closest terminal (drivers side)and i cranked it at the same time and = it started right up! This takes 2 people as one is under the car and the = other inside. I drove home no problem and right away jacked the car up and = dropped the starter. brad 67 400 convert
(back) Subject: Re : SF First Gen Get Together From: <jrotman@rms.moore.com> Date: Fri, 2 Feb 2001 15:07:58 -0600 Hey Dale, are you Vedoro green with envy????? He He He... have fun all you bird guys in SF! from the frozen tundra known as Chicago! Joe Rotman 68 Firebird 350 Convertible Vedoro Green and Rust!
(back) Subject: Revell 68 Firebird From: "by way of Geoff Martin, <Geoff@firstgenfirebird.org>" <WSherrow@aol.com> Date: Fri, 2 Feb 2001 10:03:24 -0500 Hi Geoff, If you again can pass on to the list the info on the 68 Firebird by Revell:( www.Revell-Monogram.com) and look up under New & Up Coming Releases #2342 1/25 Revell, release 5/1/01 '68 Firebird 400 2 N 1. Thanks, Dee Sherrow
(back) Subject: Re: SF First Gen Get Together From: "AL ROJAS" <amr@appsig.com> Date: Fri, 02 Feb 2001 13:40:32 -0800 Hey, that's great. I just looked up Freedom (near Watsonville), it = doesn't look to far away. My cell phone # is 408-396-7861. If you can't find us, call either me or = Hugo and we can guide you in. I have your first name (Rowan - is that right?), but not your last name. See ya, Al
(back) Subject: Re: 68 turn signal problem From: "Steve" <poncho68sa@hotmail.com> Date: Fri, 2 Feb 2001 16:45:15 -0500 Sounds like flasher or a bulb ----- Original Message ----- From: Charles Hazelton <chuckhazelton@surfree.com> To: First Generation Firebird-L <Firebird-L@oakmediacreations.com> Sent: Friday, February 02, 2001 12:57 AM Subject: 68 turn signal problem > First Generation Firebird-L Mailing List > = ......................................................................... > Left turn signal works fine. Right side does not work at all. All park > lights work, both front & rear. Brake lites work fine. Can hear the flasher > relay clicking (very fast) but the dash indicator does not light & = neither > the front or rear lights blink. Have checked for continuity in the park lite > housing, ensured a good metal to metal ground between the housing & = body. > The park lite contact gets 10 V but the turn signal contact gets about 1 V. > Anyone have an idea what to check for/how to correct this problem? TIA, > Chuck Hazelton > 68 350 Conv > >
(back) Subject: Re: 68 turn signal problem From: "AL ROJAS" <amr@appsig.com> Date: Fri, 02 Feb 2001 13:47:42 -0800 I'd bet the problem is in the steering column circuit. You can disconnect = the column circuit and ohm out the the connection path. If that's ok, = reconnect, apply power and check your source input voltage and the output voltage. = I'll bet you'll find something wrong.
(back) Subject: Re: SF First Gen Get Together From: "AL ROJAS" <amr@appsig.com> Date: Fri, 02 Feb 2001 14:11:33 -0800 Forecast for Sunday: sunny and 64 degrees. Could reach 70! I know it's = not Florida, but I'll be driving with the top down. Sorry you folks who live near the Russian front can't make = it. Later Al