First Generation Firebird-L Mailing List Re: water pulley diameters by "Frank Zeller" <fzeller@tri-austin.com> Re: '69 Trim Removal by <Paddy68@aol.com> Re: '69 Trim Removal by "ROY D LUMSDEN" <rlumsden@tampabay.rr.com> Year One Discounts by <JGeigel@aol.com> Owner Show Pages Updated (1-29-2001) by "Geoff Martin" <Geoff@firstgenfirebird.org> Re: Year One Discounts by "John Wern" <jwern@gw.total-web.net> Re: Owner Show Pages Updated (1-29-2001) by "John Wern" <jwern@gw.total-web.net> RE: Year One Discounts by "Tim Marcinek" <marcts@ga.prestige.net> Re: Year One Discounts by "Ken Reimer" <kreimer@uniserve.com> Proportioning Valve - I found some for GTO by "AL ROJAS" <amr@appsig.com> firebird manuals on cd by "scott" <saltyd@home.com> Re: Owner Show Pages Updated (1-29-2001) by <hugoba@apcom.com> Re: Year One Discounts by "Bob Trimpe" <trimpe@fuse.net> Is it spring yet ? by "Chris Porter" <fxstsb@pop.sttl.uswest.net> Alarm System For Convertible? by <F119flight@aol.com> Re: Owner Show Pages Updated (1-29-2001) by "Steve" <poncho68sa@hotmail.com> physics 160 book v.s. common sense by "danny" <dannyboylll@qwest.net>
(back) Subject: Re: water pulley diameters From: "Frank Zeller" <fzeller@tri-austin.com> Date: Mon, 29 Jan 2001 08:58:04 -0600 The smaller pulleys are for the later model AC equipped cars. This helps = keep fan speed up at idle to improve air flow and have a cold AC. I have = the right pulley if you need it. You just have to purchase the 69 only = water pump. Email me off line for the number. Frank >>> vcc2.nridell@memo.volvo.se 01/29/01 06:09AM >>> First Generation Firebird-L Mailing List .......................................................................... Remember my problem with long / short nose water pump? I've got a motor from '75 and want to use my old alternator, steering pump and crank pulley. Anyway, in my search for the ultimate water pulley at the junk yards I've found several mid 70 Pontiacs with smaller diameter pulleys. This makes me wonder if our cars would benefit from a smaller pulley. A smaller pulley makes the water pump spin faster giving a higher water pressure. Could this be a cure for overheating problems? Does anybody have insight in which cars had smaller pulleys, and why? /Niklas -------------
(back) Subject: Re: '69 Trim Removal From: <Paddy68@aol.com> Date: Mon, 29 Jan 2001 11:26:01 EST Steve, I will attempt to explain how to remove these pieces right under = where you had written them originally. Steve Lothridge wrote: >Right now the firebird is in winter storage, but as >soon as it comes out I'm going to be prepping it to >be painted. The guy doing the body work/paint is >a good friend and relative and I told him that I would >get as much of the trim removed as possible and still >have it legal to drive to his house. I'll only have >the car a short time before I have to take it to his >place, so I'll need to do this stuff pretty quickly. >As I was thinking about removing some of this stuff, >there were a few things that I can't think of how they >are removed, especially without the car here to look >at. If anyone could give me some tips so that I'm >prepared when I get the car I'd appreciate it. >The car is a '69 convertible btw. >Here are the items: >* Front Fender "Louvres" These will be the hardest to take off. They were bolted on from behind = with those speed nuts like the ones that hold you hood emblems on but larger. Do they just use a stud with a nut on the back? Will there be any trouble accessing the back side? Accessing the back side will be impossible unless you loosen or take off = the fender. >* Convertible Well Molding The important step to take here is to first remove the screws holding this = molding on. There should be one on each side toward the front of the = molding were the molding is vertical and inside the well facing the conv. top. = There might be a screw in the middle as well. I don't remember. I think you = can just gently pull the molding off from the well towards the back of the = car. You have to twist and push at the same time so the inner lip will clear = the clip. >Does this just "Pop" off, and if so, is there a >special tool or trick that should be used so it >doesn't get damaged? >* Front Windshield Lower and Side Moldings The lower molding is screwed down and is the easiest one to remove. You = have to remove the windshield valence and the screws are just underneath. The = top and side windshield moldings require a special tool. This tool looks like = a Y with to hooks hanging off it on the outside. These hooks go under the molding and catch the clips. Once you have located a clip you just pull toward the middle of the windshield and the clip will release the molding. = The side molding that covers the pillar post is screwed on and strip = caulked on. You have to take off the windshield molding, weather stripping, and = the weather stripping bracket or Track (also polished stainless). Once the windshield molding is off you can see the two small screws holding the outside of this molding. They will be down by were the windshield meets = the car. Next you will have to pull the weather stripping out and take out = the screws that are holding the weather stripping track on. Underneath this track are a few more screws holding the pillar post chrome on. After all = the screws are removed there will still be a pretty good hold on this piece because they were strip caulked onto the body. Just be very careful and = take your time. All these pieces are very hard to find and very expensive when = you do find them. >Same questions as Convertible Well Molding..... >Thanks in advance for any tips on these, or any >other tricky moldings/trim pieces I may have missed. >Also, any tips on removing the nose from the >rubber headlight bezel cushions forward would be >great. The headlight bezels are held on by five carriage bolts each. These bolts = are very hard to get because of their extra long carriage. You will have = to drop the whole nose to access the two top corner bolts. I would recommend = dousing these nuts and bolts with a lot of penetrating fluid a night or so = before you plan on taking them off. They made the carriage longer because = it has to go through the fiberglass bezel and then anchor on the metal of the = nose. A normal carriage bolt won't make it through the fiberglass and will crack it while tightening. Good Luck...Pat A BTW...I have found a good, cheap way to remove the drip rail moldings on a = hard top. I use one of those cheap bottle openers with the pointed side = on one end and the bottle opener on the other. Tape the large rounded side = of the opener (the side that would be on top of the bottle cap. Use masking = or duct tape, something with a little cushion to it. Put the opener on the corner piece and it will pop right off. Then start at the beginning of = the molding and move back. Using the opener like you would to open a bottle. = Taped side pointed toward the sky. It works, give it a try. Steve Lothridge
(back) Subject: Re: '69 Trim Removal From: "ROY D LUMSDEN" <rlumsden@tampabay.rr.com> Date: Mon, 29 Jan 2001 11:58:23 -0500 Oh, Steve, Are you in for a big job. Here's what I know: > * Front Fender "Louvers" Next to impossible to remove without removing the fender. They are held on by stamped steel speed nuts. You may be able to squeeze you hand up behind the fender if you unbolt the fender from the chassis and the fender well then pry the fender out. I hope you have thin arms. * Front Windshield Lower and Side Moldings The lower piece is bolted in place. Most of the bolts are under the cowl = but there is a clip on each end that is behind the top of the fender. I found = I had to unbolt the fender to work mine back into place. The side moldings = are screwed in place but (if I remember correctly) the screws are behind the window weather strip that runs up the pillar. > Also, any tips on removing the nose from the > rubber headlight bezel cushions forward would be > great Your not going to like this one but, to remove the rubber you have to totally dissemble the front bumper setup. I recommend that you remove the whole bumper setup first by unbolting it from the bumper brackets that extend up from the subframe. I think there are only six bolts/nuts total. three on each side. You can then lay the whole thing face down on a couple of saw horses to make it easier. If you have a die grinder, cut the = locking nuts off, not the bolt, just the nut. Don't even try to un-screw them because you'll wind up breaking the plastic mounting tabs for the = headlight surround. Pay special attention to all the little spring washers and = plastic washers. The bolts are carriage type and have extra long shoulders. Save = as many as you can. As in everything... be patient and make notes. Funny thing is, after you remove the from bumper assembly and hood, the fenders come off rather easily. You may consider this when trying to = remove the fender louvers and windshield chrome. > * Convertible Well Molding This is the one piece that I haven't removed, yet. I, too, would be interested in anyone's advice. From what I hear, you have to unbolt it = from the well side but I really don't know. Well, I hope I didn't scare you. It's a lot of work but the details can really make or break a great paint job. Good Luck, Roy ----- Original Message ----- From: <geebjen@att.net> To: "firebird" <firebird-L@oakmediacreations.com> Sent: Monday, January 29, 2001 8:46 AM Subject: '69 Trim Removal > First Generation Firebird-L Mailing List > = ......................................................................... > Right now the firebird is in winter storage, but as > soon as it comes out I'm going to be prepping it to > be painted. The guy doing the body work/paint is > a good friend and relative and I told him that I would > get as much of the trim removed as possible and still > have it legal to drive to his house. I'll only have > the car a short time before I have to take it to his > place, so I'll need to do this stuff pretty quickly. > As I was thinking about removing some of this stuff, > there were a few things that I can't think of how they > are removed, especially without the car here to look > at. If anyone could give me some tips so that I'm > prepared when I get the car I'd appreciate it. > > The car is a '69 convertible btw. > > Here are the items: > > * Front Fender "Louvres" > > Do they just use a stud with a nut on the back? > Will there be any trouble accessing the back side? > > * Convertible Well Molding > > Does this just "Pop" off, and if so, is there a > special tool or trick that should be used so it > doesn't get damaged? > > * Front Windshield Lower and Side Moldings > > Same questions as Convertible Well Molding..... > > > Thanks in advance for any tips on these, or any > other tricky moldings/trim pieces I may have missed. > > Also, any tips on removing the nose from the > rubber headlight bezel cushions forward would be > great. > > Steve Lothridge > > >
(back) Subject: Year One Discounts From: <JGeigel@aol.com> Date: Mon, 29 Jan 2001 13:14:57 EST I have a mega size order to place with Year One and I want to get the max discount I can. In December, I saw a coupon for 20% off, but it's = expired. Anybody have a newer one at more than 20%??? I've heard of some 30% = coupons, but haven't gotten one yet. Thanks Joe Geigel
(back) Subject: Owner Show Pages Updated (1-29-2001) From: "Geoff Martin" <Geoff@firstgenfirebird.org> Date: Mon, 29 Jan 2001 14:39:03 -0500 Subject: Owner Show Pages Updated (1-29-2001) Added some more owners today to the First Generation Firebird Owners' Show Pages: Le Eg 1969 White Firebird 400 Ram Air III Coupe (http://FirstGenFirebird.org/show/closeup.mv?CarID=3D120) ------------------- Enjoy - Geoff '68 Mayfair Maize Firebird 350 Convertible (http://FirstGenFirebird.org/show/closeup.mv?CarID=3D46) (Geoff@firstgenfirebird.org) More information about adding your car or link to the owner pages: (http://FirstGenFirebird.org/firebird/owners/info.html) (Make sure to drop the "(" and ")" when using the URLs)
(back) Subject: Re: Year One Discounts From: "John Wern" <jwern@gw.total-web.net> Date: Mon, 29 Jan 2001 16:24:47 -0500 Joe- If you use Classic Industries or AMES you'll save a heck of alot = more than Year One. Even with the discount. Also - Ames and Classic stock = most of your stuff for Firebirds. Year One doesnt. You know the new = catalog that came out?Well all of the prices have increased in that one. = Everything too. Call and find out. It'll blow you away. I live in Atlanta and work 3 miles from Year ONe = and I wont do business with them because of the stock and price issues. Even if I pay shipping from AMES I get it in 2-3 days and It comes out cheaper than if I wait 2-3 weeks for a paint kit, center caps, shifter bracket, transmission bracket, front end bolt kit - and go pick it up over at Year One. Just my two cents worth. I'm not bitchin just shaking my head in bewilderment. John. -----Original Message----- From: JGeigel@aol.com <JGeigel@aol.com> To: Firebird L Digest <Firebird-L@oakmediacreations.com>; = wwf-l@egroups.com <wwf-l@egroups.com> Date: Monday, January 29, 2001 2:54 PM Subject: Year One Discounts >First Generation Firebird-L Mailing List >......................................................................... >I have a mega size order to place with Year One and I want to get the max >discount I can. In December, I saw a coupon for 20% off, but it's = expired. >Anybody have a newer one at more than 20%??? I've heard of some 30% coupons, >but haven't gotten one yet. > >Thanks >Joe Geigel >
(back) Subject: Re: Owner Show Pages Updated (1-29-2001) From: "John Wern" <jwern@gw.total-web.net> Date: Mon, 29 Jan 2001 16:26:04 -0500 Le, Whered you get that hood? Thanks John. -----Original Message----- From: Geoff Martin <Geoff@firstgenfirebird.org> To: Firebird-L <Firebird-L@oakmediacreations.com> Date: Monday, January 29, 2001 2:55 PM Subject: Owner Show Pages Updated (1-29-2001) >First Generation Firebird-L Mailing List >......................................................................... >Subject: Owner Show Pages Updated (1-29-2001) > >Added some more owners today to the First Generation Firebird Owners' >Show Pages: > >Le Eg >1969 White Firebird 400 Ram Air III Coupe >(http://FirstGenFirebird.org/show/closeup.mv?CarID=3D120) > >------------------- >Enjoy - Geoff
(back) Subject: RE: Year One Discounts From: "Tim Marcinek" <marcts@ga.prestige.net> Date: Mon, 29 Jan 2001 18:58:33 -0500 yep, all that and more. In a nutshell, year one is a rip off and the = people that work there are jerks. Ames is much better. tim
(back) Subject: Re: Year One Discounts From: "Ken Reimer" <kreimer@uniserve.com> Date: Mon, 29 Jan 2001 16:50:16 -0800 Joe et al, Don't forget about Performance Years; I just did a price = comparison on hard parts, brakes, steering, etc. On average, Performance Years was always less expensive than Classic Industries and Year One. I've ordered from both Year One and Classic, neither one of them overwhelmed me with the quality of their products. I've always heard good things about AMES but as of yet I haven't bought anything from them. Just my .02, BTW. Regards, Ken At 04:24 PM 1/29/2001 -0500, you wrote: >First Generation Firebird-L Mailing List >......................................................................... >Joe- If you use Classic Industries or AMES you'll save a heck of alot = more >than Year One. Even with the discount. Also - Ames and Classic stock = most >of your stuff for Firebirds. Year One doesnt. You know the new = catalog >that came out?Well all of the prices have increased in that one. = Everything >too. Call and find out. >It'll blow you away. I live in Atlanta and work 3 miles from Year ONe = and >I wont do business with them because of the stock and price issues. = Even >if I pay shipping from AMES I get it in 2-3 days and It comes out = cheaper >than if I wait 2-3 weeks for a paint kit, center caps, shifter bracket, >transmission bracket, front end bolt kit - and go pick it up over at Year >One. >Just my two cents worth. I'm not bitchin just shaking my head in >bewilderment. >John. >-----Original Message----- >From: JGeigel@aol.com <JGeigel@aol.com> >To: Firebird L Digest <Firebird-L@oakmediacreations.com>; = wwf-l@egroups.com ><wwf-l@egroups.com> >Date: Monday, January 29, 2001 2:54 PM >Subject: Year One Discounts > > >>First Generation Firebird-L Mailing List >>.........................................................................= >>I have a mega size order to place with Year One and I want to get the = max >>discount I can. In December, I saw a coupon for 20% off, but it's = expired. >>Anybody have a newer one at more than 20%??? I've heard of some 30% >coupons, >>but haven't gotten one yet. >> >>Thanks >>Joe Geigel
(back) Subject: Proportioning Valve - I found some for GTO From: "AL ROJAS" <amr@appsig.com> Date: Mon, 29 Jan 2001 17:13:46 -0800 I just spoke to a guy who has 2 valves out of a '68 and '69 GTO. He said the valves are the same as Firebird, but the mounting brackets are different (is that true?). You're interested, email me off line. Al
(back) Subject: firebird manuals on cd From: "scott" <saltyd@home.com> Date: Mon, 29 Jan 2001 20:11:24 -0600 I was browsing Ebay and saw a company that sells auto manuals on cd they claim to have 2 manuals on one cd for 50 dollars. I thought that was a = great idea but a little pricey.
(back) Subject: Re: Owner Show Pages Updated (1-29-2001) From: <hugoba@apcom.com> Date: Mon, 29 Jan 2001 18:20:09 -0800 (PST) Veeeery sweet Le. Hopefully my 69 pho-TA convertible will come out that good. Hugo > > Le Eg > 1969 White Firebird 400 Ram Air III Coupe > (http://FirstGenFirebird.org/show/closeup.mv?CarID=3D120) > > ------------------- > Enjoy - Geoff > '68 Mayfair Maize Firebird 350 Convertible > (http://FirstGenFirebird.org/show/closeup.mv?CarID=3D46) > (Geoff@firstgenfirebird.org) > > More information about adding your car or link to the owner pages: > (http://FirstGenFirebird.org/firebird/owners/info.html) > (Make sure to drop the "(" and ")" when using the URLs) > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------
(back) Subject: Re: Year One Discounts From: "Bob Trimpe" <trimpe@fuse.net> Date: Mon, 29 Jan 2001 22:39:02 -0500 I have bought from Perf Years, Classic and Ames. Ames is by far the best = in price, service and quality. They've gotten a lot of my money as a result. Bob Trimpe
(back) Subject: Is it spring yet ? From: "Chris Porter" <fxstsb@pop.sttl.uswest.net> Date: Mon, 29 Jan 2001 20:46:52 -0800 Are you guys as bad as me ? Its winter up here in Seattle, car is in the garage. Not to many nice days to go out and drive on the weekend. So I just lift the car cover every now and then and take a peek. I look forward to the once a month I go out and fire her up :) Man, you gotta love that sound ! Chris `68 350 H.O. Drop-top
(back) Subject: Alarm System For Convertible? From: <F119flight@aol.com> Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2001 00:23:38 EST Anybody able to recommend a good alarm system for a convertible? Did not = see anything on the FAQ's pages. I hear there are interior motion detector = alarms these days. Are they any good? Tilt angle alarms to protect against tow aways. I don't want to cut & drill holes all over the car. I'm not looking = for a lowjack just something to scare away / disable most thieves. No = jokes about razor blades and convertibles please. Steve, 68 Convertible
(back) Subject: Re: Owner Show Pages Updated (1-29-2001) From: "Steve" <poncho68sa@hotmail.com> Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2001 01:11:14 -0500 Can be seen or purchased at http://www.carhoods.com/67-69%20Firebird.htm Thanks- Steve.... poncho68sa@hotmail.com 68 Firebird Restoration http://lightning.locl.net/homes/sapple/index.html Pontiac Firebird Links http://communities.msn.com/PontiacFirebirdLinks/home.htm '68 Firebird Photos http://communities.msn.com/68FirebirdRestoration/home.htm ----- Original Message ----- From: John Wern <jwern@gw.total-web.net> To: First Generation Firebird-L <Firebird-L@oakmediacreations.com> Sent: Monday, January 29, 2001 4:26 PM Subject: Re: Owner Show Pages Updated (1-29-2001) > First Generation Firebird-L Mailing List > = ......................................................................... > Le, Whered you get that hood? Thanks John. > -----Original Message----- > From: Geoff Martin <Geoff@firstgenfirebird.org> > To: Firebird-L <Firebird-L@oakmediacreations.com> > Date: Monday, January 29, 2001 2:55 PM > Subject: Owner Show Pages Updated (1-29-2001) > > > >First Generation Firebird-L Mailing List > = >......................................................................... > >Subject: Owner Show Pages Updated (1-29-2001) > > > >Added some more owners today to the First Generation Firebird Owners' > >Show Pages: > > > >Le Eg > >1969 White Firebird 400 Ram Air III Coupe > >(http://FirstGenFirebird.org/show/closeup.mv?CarID=3D120) > > > >------------------- > >Enjoy - Geoff >
(back) Subject: physics 160 book v.s. common sense From: "danny" <dannyboylll@qwest.net> Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2001 00:36:48 -0700 i have come across something very interesting and troubling in my physics book. i am a sophomore physics major in albuquerque new mexico and there = is a paragraph in my physics book that claims that tire width and diamater = has nothing to do with traction!!!!!! AND I QUOTE "Friction does not depend on the area of contact. so those extra wide = tires you see on some cars provide no more friction than narrower tires. the wider tire simply spreads the weight of the car over a greater area to reduce heating and wear. simaliarly the friction between a truck and the ground is the same weather the truck has 4 tires or 18. more tires spread the load over more of a ground area and reduce the pressure per tire. interestingly stopping distance when brakes are applied is not effected by the # of tires, but the wear that the tires experience." i found this very interesting. it is in black and white in my physics = book, so i have to believe it. now i know that a softer tire will grip the road better, and will not last as long. and the springy sidewalls of slicks = will absorb some of the launch energy and release it later when the tire s have more traction, but it seems common sense that a wider tire would have more traction. well then again 500 years ago common sense would tell you that the earth was flat..... :>) -danny 68 400 coupe. new mex.